02-Create Shape and Skirt Manipulation Lectra Modaris - V3 - First Year Lectra PDF

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Summary

How to use lectra modaris for beginners....

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S.Gill 2018

Skirt Manipulation Lectra Modaris The following instructions guide on the creation of a basic rectangle in Lectra for a skirt waistband and in the manipulation of a skirt to change the dart into a yoke.

Creating a Rectangle for the waistband 1. Open the Lectra Modaris software, ensure all settings are correct as in handout one, then select File > Open Model and select the model BB Skirt Block.mdl from the Lectra Patterns folder.

2. Select Sheet > New Sheet, this will allow you to create the waistband on a separate sheet to the front and back of the skirt.

3. Create a rectangle a. Select: F2 > rectangle b.L Click on the sheet and then either freehand or using the width and length input box, create a rectangle 73cm x 6cm. On entering the values into the menu box hit ‘Return‘on the keyboard and L Click on the active sheet to complete the action.

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c. Now use ‘J’ on the keyboard to re-centre the sheets to the work area. d.This rectangle is not actually usable as a pattern, the next step transforms the shape outline into a pattern e. Select F4 > Cut and then L Click inside the rectangle and R click again within it to create a pattern shape. Use ‘J’ to re-centre the pieces within the sheet

f. You have now created a pattern shape within Lectra. You can now save this file and we are ready to move on to the next step.

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Introduction to the anatomy of the skirt block The following image introduces the terminology related to the skirt block Back Waist Dart

Centre Back

Skirt Back

Side Seam

Skirt Front

Centre Front

Side Seam

Front Waist Dart

Skirt Waistband

Creating a Yoke on the skirt back We are now ready to create a yoke on the upper back of the skirt, this allows us to remove the dart and form the suppression into a seam. 1. L Click to select the sheet containing the skirt back panel, use the ‘Home’ key on the keyboard to zoom to just that sheet. 2. Select F1 > Straight from the line functions 3. L Click to begin a line from the CB to the side seam, R Click to end the line. This line should pass just below the back waist dart as in the image below. a. If your line is incorrect you can either use Ctrl Z on the keyboard to undo, or use F3 > Deletion to remove the line, hold ‘shift‘ to remove both the line and the points either end when L clicking to delete.

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4. If the yoke line does not cross the end of the dart, it may be necessary to draw a straight line from the dart apex to the yoke line. Use the straight line function and Ctrl to hold the line straight. Using Return on the keyboard will allow you to zoom to an area on the sheet, L Click and then drag a box around the area to zoom to.

5. Press ‘Home’ on the keyboard to bring the fuill pattern piece into view. Then select F4 > Cut and cut out the lower part of the skirt, then cut out the upper sections

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6. Use F3 > Move to rearrange the pieces so they are placed next to each other.

New cut pieces should be placed so the dart legs are facing each other.

7. Use the Return key to select the zoom tool and then L Click and select the area to zoom to so you can clearly see both pieces which will be used to create the yoke.

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8. Then use F5 > Join to make the two separate pieces into one, this will need to be done in two stages. a. To join L click on one end of the line and then L click on the other, then move the piece over and L Click to join the first then second points onto the other piece. This will create a new combined piece.

L Click 3 L Click 1

L Click 2

L Click 4

9. Now it is time to shape the seam and waistline. a. First use F3 > Merge to change the square points to crosses, this merges them to make the lines one continuous line.

10.It is now time to reshape the waistline and new yoke seam, to do this it is necessary to turn on viewing of curve points using the menu bar at the base of the screen.

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11.Use F1 > Add Point (hold ‘Shift’ to add curve points) and add 3 curve points on the lower seam line as in the image below. To add a curve point L Click on an existing point and then L Click at a point on the line you wish to add the point.

12.Now use F3 > Deletion to remove the merged point and then select F3 > Reshape to create a pleasing curve to the seam.

13. Now use F4 > Cut to create the lower portion of the skirt back to join to the yoke. 14. You can now save the newly created pattern to your Lectra pattern storage area.

List of References Stott, M. (2012). Pattern cutting for clothing using CAD: How to use Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software. Cambridge, UK: Woodhead Publishing. [Available as an eBook through the UoM library website]

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