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Eggplant Omelet (Tortang Talong) Torta is “omelet” and talong is “eggplant,” but this is more like an egg-battered cutlet eaten for breakfast or lunch. The eggplants are heavily charred before they’re battered with egg and panfried, making them smoky and creamy. Sometimes, ground pork or beef is added to the egg, but we often use crab (though that’s optional, too). You can serve tortang talong as a vegetable side as part of a bigger meal, or on its own with a bowl of rice alongside and some fish sauce on top. You can also make this dish if you have any leftover grilled eggplant; it would work perfectly.

INGREDIENTS      

2 large Asian eggplants (about 1/3 pound/155 g each) 2 extra-large eggs Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons picked cooked crabmeat (optional) Fish sauce, for serving

PREPARATION Preheat the broiler. Lay the eggplants in a single layer on a baking sheet and broil them, flipping once or twice, until they are soft and blackened on all sides, about 15 minutes. (If you have a gas stove, you can do this by holding the eggplants with tongs over a burner on medium-high heat, turning them so they blacken on all sides.) Place the softened eggplants in a ziplock bag. Set aside for 10 minutes to steam (this makes the skin easier to peel). Peel the eggplants, discarding the skins, and use a fork to gently flatten the flesh. Put the eggs in a shallow bowl. Beat well and season with salt and pepper. In a large skillet, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Dip each eggplant in the beaten eggs, letting it soak for a second or two so that it is well covered with the egg. Season the egg-dipped eggplant with additional salt and pepper and place it in the skillet. Repeat with the

other eggplant, making sure there’s room between them in the skillet. Place 1 tablespoon of the crab (if using) on top of each eggplant, pressing it down with a fork. When the eggplants are crispy and browned on one side, 4 to 5 minutes, flip them over and cook until browned and crispy on the second side, about 3 minutes more. Transfer the eggplants to a paper towel–lined plate to drain.

Mais con Yelo In the Philippines, mais con yelo is a traditional dessert of crushed ice layered with corn kernels and sweetened milk, the milk and ice are combined with puréed corn to make a delicious granita, which is piled over fresh corn in syrup and topped with crunchy cornflakes.

INGREDIENTS 

4 ears of corn, kernels cut from cobs (2 1/2–3 cups), cobs reserved

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3/4 cup heavy cream

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1/4 cup condensed milk

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1/4 cup evaporated milk

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8 Tbsp. granulated sugar, divided

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1 3/4 tsp. kosher salt, divided

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1/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp. dark brown sugar

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Cornflakes (for serving)

PREPARATION Set aside 1 cup corn kernels for the syrup. Transfer remaining kernels to a large bowl. Using the handle of a spoon or a butter knife, vigorously scape cobs over bowl to release any remaining bits of kernels and as much corn liquid as possible. Transfer kernels and liquid to a blender. Blend on high speed until liquefied as much as possible (there will still be some small chunks—that’s okay), about 1 minute. Transfer to a sheet of cheesecloth,

then wring and twist bundle to release corn liquid into a medium bowl (you should have ¾–1 cup). Discard solids. Add cream, condensed milk, evaporated milk, 2 Tbsp. granulated sugar, 3/4 tsp. salt, and 2 cups water to bowl with corn liquid and whisk to combine. Pour mixture into a 13x9" baking dish. Freeze until icy around the edges, about 30 minutes. Using a fork, scrape granita every 30 minutes until ice crystals are thick, icy, and flaky, about 2 hours. Cover tightly and freeze until ready to use. Meanwhile, bring brown sugar, remaining 6 Tbsp. granulated sugar, remaining 1 tsp. salt, and 1 cup water to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until syrup is glossy and slightly thickened but still runny, 10–15 minutes. Add reserved 1 cup corn, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce is thickened to the consistency of maple syrup and corn is cooked through, about 3 minutes. Let cool, then chill in an airtight container until ready to serve. Divide syrup and corn among sundae glasses. Top with granita. Sprinkle with cornflakes.

Pork, Vegetable, and Tamarind Stew The finished stew should be decidedly sour, tamarind’s calling card, but you’re in control of how puckery things get. You can sub other vegetables or simplify the array, but be very careful not to overcook them.

INGREDIENTS 

10 dried bay leaves

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1/2 cup black peppercorns

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1 cup dried shiitake mushrooms

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3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

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1 medium white onion, chopped

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2 heads of garlic, cloves chopped

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2 jalapeños, thinly sliced

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3 medium tomatoes, quartered

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4 pounds St. Louis–style pork spareribs or skinless, boneless pork shoulder (Boston butt), or a combination of both

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1 (8-ounce) package dried tamarind pulp with or without seeds

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Kosher salt

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4 baby bok choy, halved lengthwise

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1 small Japanese eggplant, cut into 1-inch pieces

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2 watermelon radishes or globe radishes, cut into 3/4-inch pieces

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4 ounces Chinese long beans or green beans, cut into 2-inch lengths

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1 cup small okra

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1 tablespoon fish sauce; plus more for serving (optional)

Special Equipment A layer of cheesecloth; a spice mill

PREPARATION Place bay leaves and peppercorns in center of cheesecloth and tie closed with kitchen twine; set sachet aside. Grind mushrooms in spice mill to a powder. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large heavy pot over medium-high. Cook onion, garlic, and chiles, stirring often, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook, stirring often, until partly broken down and very saucy, about 5 minutes. Add ribs, mushroom powder, reserved sachet, and 12 cups water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat. Place tamarind pulp in a small medium-mesh sieve and partially submerge into simmering liquid (it will soften and start to dissolve as time goes by). Cook ribs, skimming foam from the surface, until very tender (meat should be practically falling off the bone for ribs and shred easily for pork shoulder),

2–2 1/2 hours. Season with salt and push tamarind pulp through sieve with a rubber spatula, tasting as you go, until desired level of sourness is reached. Discard any remaining tamarind. Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium skillet over medium-high. Cook bok choy, eggplant, radishes, beans, and okra, tossing occasionally, until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Add 1 Tbsp. fish sauce and toss to coat. Divide vegetables, ribs, and broth among bowls; serve drizzled with more fish sauce, if desired.

Filipino-Style Beef Steak with Onion and Bay Leaves (Bistek) If you trimmed any excess fat off the steaks, render it slowly over medium heat and use in place of the oil.

INGREDIENTS 

2 (1-inch-thick) boneless rib-eye steaks, excess fat trimmed

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2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

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8 fresh bay leaves

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1 large white onion, sliced into 1/2" thick rounds

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1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

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1/4 cup soy sauce

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Kosher salt

PREPARATION

Slice steaks in half lengthwise. Following natural seams in meat, cut each half into 2–3 pieces and set aside. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium. Add bay leaves; cook until beginning to brown around the edges, about 1 minute. Add onion and 1/2 cup water. Cover skillet (use a baking sheet if you don’t have a lid) and cook until onion is partly tender; it should have lost its raw bite but still have some crunch, about 5 minutes. Transfer onion and bay leaves to a plate with a slotted spatula or tongs. Increase heat to medium-high and bring remaining liquid in skillet to a boil. Cook until only 2 Tbsp. remains. Scrape into a small bowl and stir in lemon juice and soy sauce. Set sauce aside. Wipe out skillet and heat remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in skillet over mediumhigh. Season reserved meat with salt. Working in batches, cook meat undisturbed until dark brown, about 2 minutes. Turn and cook until second side is lightly browned, about 45 seconds. Transfer to a platter. Reduce heat to medium (let skillet cool a little if it is very hot) and cook reserved sauce in skillet just to let flavors meld, about 1 minute. Add 1–2 Tbsp. water if sauce is too concentrated. Pour over meat and top with onion and bay leaves.

Ensaymada These sugary, Parmesan-y, buttery Philippine yeast rolls are a Christmas morning mainstay for chef Angela Dimayuga’s family.

INGREDIENTS 

1/2 cup lukewarm milk (105°F–110°F)

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6 large egg yolks

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3 cups all-purpose flour, divided

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1 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

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8 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature; plus 4 tablespoons melted, slightly cooled, divided

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Nonstick vegetable oil spray

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1/2 cup grated Parmesan, plus more

Special Equipment Two 6-cup jumbo muffin pans; a 1/2-inch-diameter wooden dowel

PREPARATION Combine yeast, 1/2 tsp. sugar, and 3 Tbsp. lukewarm water in the bowl of a stand mixer. Cover bowl and let mixture sit until foamy and active, about 10 minutes. Whisk milk, 3 egg yolks, 3/4 cup flour, and 1/4 cup sugar into yeast mixture until smooth. Cover and let sit until very bubbly, 1–1 1/2 hours. Add salt, remaining 3 egg yolks, 1/2 cup sugar, and remaining 2 1/4 cup flour to mixture. Fit mixer with dough hook and mix dough on medium-low speed until smooth and elastic, 6–8 minutes (it will be sticky). Add 8 Tbsp. room-temperature butter 1 Tbsp. at a time, mixing until completely incorporated after each addition (about 1 minute each time). Dough should be very easy to stretch. Cover bowl and let dough rise in a warm draft-free place until doubled in size, about 2 hours. Preheat oven to 325°F. Coat muffin cups with nonstick spray and line with 4" squares of parchment paper. Punch down dough; divide into 12 pieces. Working with 1 piece and covering the rest, roll out to a 14x3" rectangle. Brush lightly with melted butter and sprinkle with a little cheese (about 2 tsp.). Working at an angle so dough wraps down the length of dowel, roll dough toward you around dowel. Slide dough off dowel (it will scrunch up a bit). Stretch out to 8–10" long and coil around itself to make a snail-shell shape; place in a muffin cup. Repeat with remaining pieces of dough. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise until puffy and dough springs back when gently pressed, 25–35 minutes. Bake ensaimadas until golden brown and puffed, 20–25 minutes. Brush with remaining melted butter; sprinkle with more Parmesan and remaining 6 tsp. sugar....