Handbook of Yarn Production TechnologyP.R.Lord.pdf PDF

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Handbook of yarn production Handbook of yarn production Technology, science and economics Peter R. Lord CRC Press Boca Raton Boston New York Washington, DC WOODHEAD PUBLISHING LIMITED Cambridge England Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publi...

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Handbook of yarn production

Handbook of yarn production Technology, science and economics Peter R. Lord

CRC Press Boca Raton Boston New York Washington, DC

WOODHEAD

PUBLISHING LIMITED Cambridge England

Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing Ltd Abington Hall, Abington Cambridge CB1 6AH, England www.woodhead-publishing.com Published in North America by CRC Press LLC 2000 Corporate Blvd, NW Boca Raton FL 33431, USA First published 2003, Woodhead Publishing Ltd and CRC Press LLC © 2003, Woodhead Publishing Ltd The author has asserted his moral rights. Originally published in 1979 by the author under the title The economics, science and technology of yarn production, this is a new, completely revised version of the book. This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and the publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials. Neither the author nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book. Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming and recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers. The consent of Woodhead Publishing and CRC Press does not extend to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for resale. Specific permission must be obtained in writing from Woodhead Publishing or CRC Press for such copying. Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation, without intent to infringe. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. Woodhead Publishing ISBN 1 85573 696 9 CRC Press ISBN 0-8493-1781-9 CRC Press order number: WP1781 Typeset by Replika Press Pvt Ltd, India Printed by TJ International, Cornwall, England

Contents

Acknowledgments ....................................................................................................... ix 1

Review of yarn production ............................................................................ 1 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4

2

Textile products and fiber production ...................................................... 18 2.1 2.2 2.3

3

Textile materials (fabrics, fibers, and filaments) ............................... 18 Natural fibers (types and production) ................................................ 22 Man-made fibers (polymer extrusion and yarn production) ............. 38 References ........................................................................................... 54

Common principles .................................................................................... 56 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 3.7 3.8 3.9 3.10 3.11 3.12

4

Historical basis ...................................................................................... 1 Present day conditions .......................................................................... 8 Future of the means of textile production ............................................ 9 Modern production systems ................................................................ 10 References ........................................................................................... 17

Introduction ......................................................................................... 56 Twist in strands ................................................................................... 56 Twist insertion ..................................................................................... 61 Confined and non-confined systems .................................................. 67 Twist evenness ..................................................................................... 68 Tension control .................................................................................... 69 Drawing ............................................................................................... 70 Consequences of roller errors on the textile product ........................ 76 Control of irregular flow in drawing or drafting ............................... 77 Doubling .............................................................................................. 83 Effects of shear .................................................................................... 84 Integration of sub-processes ............................................................... 86 References ........................................................................................... 87

Filament yarn production .......................................................................... 88 4.1 4.2

Introduction ......................................................................................... 88 Texturing filament yarns ..................................................................... 89

vi

Contents

4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 4.7 4.8 4.9 4.10 4.11

5

Carding and prior processes for short-staple fibers ............................. 116 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10 5.11 5.12

6

Introduction ....................................................................................... 155 Drawframe ......................................................................................... 155 Combing ............................................................................................ 159 Creel blending ................................................................................... 164 An industrial case study .................................................................... 165 References ......................................................................................... 167

Short-staple spinning ............................................................................... 168 7.1 7.2

8

Introduction ....................................................................................... 116 Opening line ...................................................................................... 118 Bale preparation ................................................................................ 119 The first stage of blending and opening .......................................... 121 The process of disintegration of fiber clumps ................................. 122 Condensation ..................................................................................... 123 The process of cleaning .................................................................... 125 Intimate blending .............................................................................. 129 Fiber flow .......................................................................................... 133 Carding .............................................................................................. 136 Waste control ..................................................................................... 149 Safety ................................................................................................. 153 References ......................................................................................... 154

Sliver preparation ..................................................................................... 155 6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4 6.5

7

Real twist texturing ............................................................................. 90 False twist texturing ............................................................................ 92 Draw-texturing ................................................................................... 102 Stuffer box texturing ......................................................................... 104 Air-jet texturing ................................................................................. 106 Other texturing techniques ................................................................ 110 Industrial filaments ........................................................................... 113 Silk filaments and staple yarns ........................................................ 113 Morphology and dyeing .................................................................... 114 References ......................................................................................... 114

Ring spinning .................................................................................... 168 Open-end spinning ............................................................................ 185 References ......................................................................................... 203

Long-staple spinning ................................................................................ 205 8.1 8.2 8.3 8.4 8.5

Introduction: Effects of lengthening the staple ............................... 205 Wool fibers and their preparation .................................................... 206 Worsted systems ................................................................................ 213 The woolen system ............................................................................ 220 Bast fiber spinning processes ........................................................... 231 References ......................................................................................... 232

Contents

9

Post-spinning processes ............................................................................ 234 9.1 9.2 9.3 9.4 9.5 9.6

10

Yarns of complex structure ............................................................... 260 Processes using modified twist ........................................................ 261 Compact spinning .............................................................................. 261 Air-jet spinning ................................................................................. 263 Sirospun yarns and process .............................................................. 268 Hollow spindle spinning ................................................................... 270 Self-twist spinning ............................................................................ 271 Twisted self-twist yarns and processes ............................................ 274 References ......................................................................................... 275

Quality and quality control ..................................................................... 276 11.1 11.2 11.3 11.4

12

Winding ............................................................................................. 234 Yarn joining ....................................................................................... 245 Ply yarns ............................................................................................ 250 Automation ........................................................................................ 253 Two-for-one twisting ......................................................................... 255 Customer concerns ............................................................................ 257 References ......................................................................................... 259

Staple systems and modified yarn structures ........................................ 260 10.1 10.2 10.3 10.4 10.5 10.6 10.7 10.8

11

vii

Quality ............................................................................................... 276 Quality control .................................................................................. 278 Yarn evenness .................................................................................... 291 End-breaks and quality ..................................................................... 298 References ......................................................................................... 300

Economics of staple yarn production ..................................................... 301 12.1 12.2 12.3 12.4 12.5 12.6

Yarn economics ................................................................................. 301 Productivity ....................................................................................... 303 Quality and economics ...................................................................... 306 Cost minimization ............................................................................. 308 Operational factors ............................................................................ 313 International competition .................................................................. 315 References ......................................................................................... 316

Appendices ................................................................................................ 317 1. Calculations I: Elementary theory ....................................................... 317 2. Calculations II: Worked examples ....................................................... 329 3. Advanced topics I: Air conditioning and utilities ............................... 341 4. Advanced topics II: Testing of textile materials ................................. 350 5. Advanced topics III: Staple yarn structures ........................................ 373 6. Advanced topics IV: Textured yarn structures .................................... 383 7. Advanced topics V: Blending of staple fibers..................................... 389 8. Advanced topics VI: Drafting and doubling ....................................... 407 9. Advanced topics VII: Yarn balloon mechanics ................................... 427 10. Advanced topics VIII: Topics in rotor spinning .................................. 453 Index ........................................................................................................................ 465

Acknowledgments

Grateful acknowledgments are made to the many friends and colleagues who have read various parts of this script and given very helpful and constructive criticism. These include Charles Chewning, David Clapp, Philip Dabbs, Yehia E1 Moghazi, Wally Johnson, W Oxenham, Jon Rust and W C Stuckey. Acknowledgments are also made to UMIST, NC State University, Cotton Incorporated, the many different commercial organizations in a variety of fields with whom I have been associated and the many people involved. It has been a great experience and pleasure. Much of what I have to say in this book has its origins in the many discussions and shared fieldwork experiences. This embraces too large a number of people to name individually but I take the opportunity to express my thanks to all of you. I hope that by sharing these experiences, I will repay the help that I have received during my career in this fascinating field. I would be remiss in not acknowledging the wonderful forbearance of my wife Mavis during these last years. Only someone that cared so much could have tolerated the late arrivals for meals, the relegation of important social responsibilities and the overwhelming obsession with the project. I dedicate the work to her in celebration of our 56th wedding anniversary.

1 Review of yarn production

1.1

Historical basis

1.1.1 Historical background [1] The long reach of history shows how prosperity varies as civilizations have waxed and waned. The course of prosperity has been bumpy and there are dangers in extrapolating the future based on the short-term past. Successive centuries have seen fundamental changes of varying types. Greenwood [2] outlines steps related to yarns and textiles in the first two millennia and points out the extraordinary fineness of the materials that have been made. He also discusses some of the developments that have improved the productivity of the manufacturing systems and reduced the costs over the centuries. The eighteenth century saw a financial revolution, the nineteenth saw the industrial revolution, and the twentieth saw the information revolution. The history of humanity contains many references to textile materials because they were, and still are, part of the fabric of our lives. Consequently, the history of fibers is one of the traceable threads in the story of yarn production. A second thread concerns the extraordinary developments of the industrial revolution. There were gigantic steps in productivity of both people and machines. Another thread concerns the developing economic environment that has surrounded these changes. Thus, let us first make a brief survey of the history of some important fibers.

1.1.2 A brief history of silk The origin of silk is found only in legend and fable; certainly it was used in the time of Emperor Huang Ti in China in the third millennium BC. Sanskrit literature refers to silk in India in the second century BC and the Old Testament also refers to it. When it percolated to the West, it was as valuable as gold on a weight-to-weight basis. Roman Emperor Justinian tried to monopolize the trade (unsuccessfully), smuggled silk worms to Constantinople (c. AD 550) and started sericulture there. Byzantine silks became world famous. The Moors established sericulture in Spain and so the production of silk spread. It reached northern Europe in the fifteenth century and the

2

Handbook of yarn production

western hemisphere in the sixteenth, although it failed at first. However, the strong luster and ability to take brilliant dyes made silk very attractive. The peak of activity was after World War I and by 1919 the price had risen to US$21/lb; that is equivalent to over $1200/lb in the currency of 2003. Once fine man-made fibers entered the market, the price and the demand for silk dropped; but there is still an important market in some areas of the world. Perhaps the early inventors of synthetic fibers were influenced by the knowledge of the manner in which silkworms, spiders, and other creatures extruded filaments. Doubtless, they were also impressed by the extraordinary properties of these naturally extruded fibers. Such inspiration was probably very important in determining the future of fiber production.

1.1.3 A brief history of bast fibers Bast fibers are derived from the stems of various plants. Cultivated flax [3] probably originated in the Mediterranean region; certainly it was used in prehistoric times. It was found in Stone Age dwellings in Switzerland, the ancient Egyptians used it, and references to it are sprinkled throughout historical writings. It has been used both for its fiber and for its seed. The fiber is used to make linen cloth, and the crushed seed yields linseed oil, long used for the preservation of leather and wood. Until the eighteenth century, linen manufacture was widespread in the domestic industry of European countries. The development of cotton processing and the great inventions of the industrial revolution dealt an almost fatal blow to this erstwhile prevailing industry. Jute fiber was largely unknown in the West until the eighteenth century, but it was in common use in Bengal before then. There was resistance to its use because blending it with hemp or flax was regarded as adulteration. In the nineteenth century, the Dutch government replaced linen coffee bags wi...