Vanishing Cream - Lecture notes 1-5 PDF

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Vanishing Cream Lecture Notes....

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Vanishing Cream

DEFINITION :A cosmetic similar to cold cream but less oily, applied usually to the face and neck as a base, night cream, or moisturizer is a vanishing cream.It is a o/w type of emulsion.

HISTORY:Stearate skin creams were more commonly called vanishing creams because they seemed to disappear when spread on the skin. The name may have been coined by the Pond’s Extract Company, who began making a stearate cream called Pond’s Vanishing Cream in 1904. Pond’s was not the first company to market this type of skin cream; that honour goes to Burroughs Wellcome who began selling a stearate cream called Hazeline Snow in 1892. Traditional vanishing cream formulations comprise high amounts of fatty acid, typically stearic acid. They also comprise salts of fatty acids called "fatty acid soap" which are typically alkali metal salts of the fatty acid, resulting from the in situ partial neutralization of fatty acid with a neutralizing agent(caustic potash or any other base).This partially neutralized composition is having certain pH limitation(generally near 7orabove),which is required for a right balance between fatty acid and salts of fatty acid. Developments in the cosmetic field aim to incorporate skin benefit actives in vanishing cream compositions, in order to expand its uses.

IDEAL PROPERTIES:Pure whiteness and pearly appearance. Very little odor and low iodine number. Rubbed easily on the skin without roll-on effect. Should have optimum pH (4.66). Consistency should be optimum Should not be sticky.Should be attractive in appearance.Penetration through epidermis of skin should be desirable. Must be non-irritant and non-inflammatory.

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FORMULATION:FORMULA 1: Stearic acid Cetyl alcohol Triethanolamine Sodium hydroxide Glycerin Water Perfume

20% 0.5% 1.2% 0.36% 8% q.s. q.s

PROCEDURE: Step 1. In one beaker, stearic acid, cetyl alcohol are mixed and heated to 70 degree Celsius in a suitable container generally borosilicate glass apparatus is used in when making on lab scale. For large-scale production Stainless steel containers are used. This makes the oily phase of vanishing cream. This makes oil phase. Step 2. Triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide, glycerin and water are mixed and heated to 70 degree Celsius simultaneously in another suitable container. This makes the aqueous phase of the vanishing cream. Step 3. When both phases are at 70 degree Celsius, oily phase is transferred to aqueous phase in small portions with continuous stirring in manner that a homogenous emulsion is formed. Now, once the transfer is complete it is allowed to come at room temperature all the while being stirred Step 4. Perfume is added just before the finished product is transferred to suitable container.

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FORMULA 2: 1. Stearic acid

4.5gm

2. Potassium carbonate

0.2gm

3. Borax

0.05gm

4. Sorbitol

1.25gm

5. Perfume

q.s

6. Purified water

Upto 25ml

Step 1. Stearic acid is melted in water bath at 700C. Step 2. Potassium carbonate dissolved in water and borax is added to it then mix it thoroughly. This solution is heated to 700C. Step 3. Then the solution is poured into melted stearic acid with stirring at same temperature for 10 mins until the saponification is completed. Step 4. China dish is removed from the flame and stirred until it is cold. Step 5. Perfume is dissolved in sorbitol which is added to the cream and mixed thoroughly

EVALUATION:1. Determination of organoleptic properties The appearance of the cream is judged by its color, pearlscence and roughness and graded. 2. Determination of pH Accurately weighed 5 g of the sample is to be dispersed in 45 ml. of water. The pH of the suspension is determined at 27°C using digital pH meter. 3. Determination of homogeneity The formulations are to be tested for the homogeneity by visual appearance and by touch. 4. Determination of spreadability

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Spread ability may be expressed by the extent of the area to which the topical application spreads when applied to the affected parts on the skin. The therapeutic efficiency of the formulation also depends upon its spreading value. Hence, it is necessary to determine the spread ability of the formulation. For this purpose, sample (about 3gm) is to be applied in between two glass slides and they are pressed together to obtain a film of uniform thickness by placing 1000 gm weight for 5 minutes. Thereafter a weight (10gm) is added to the pan and the top plate is subjected to pull with the help of string attached to the hook. The time in which the upper glass slide moves over the lower plate to cover a distance of 10 cm is noted. The spread ability (S) can be calculated using the formula.

Where, S – Spread ability m- Weight tied to upper glass slide. l- Length moved on a glass slide t- Time taken. The determinations were carried out in triplicate and the average of three readings was recorded. 5. Determination of wetness It is determined by applying cream on skin surface of human volunteer. 6. Determination of type of smear It id determined by applying the cream on the skin surface of human volunteer. After application of cream, the type of film or smear formed on the skin is checked. 7. Determination of emolliency Emolliency, slipperiness and amount of residue left after the application of fixed amounts of cream is checked. 8. Determination of viscosity The viscosity determinations is carried out using a Brookfield Viscometer. 9. Determination of type of emulsion 5

The type of emulsion formed is determined by the Dilution test. In this test the emulsion is diluted either with oil or water. If the emulsion is o/w type and it is diluted with water, it will remain stable as water is the dispersion medium" but if it is diluted with oil, the emulsion will break as oil and water are not miscible with each other. Oil in water emulsion can easily be diluted with an aqueous solvent, whereas water in oil emulsion can be diluted with an oily liquid. Dye solubility test In this test an emulsion is mixed with a water soluble dye (amaranth) and observed under the microscope. If the continuous phase appears red, it means that the emulsion is o/w type as the water is in the external phase and the dye will dissolve in it to give color. If the scattered globules appear red and continuous phase colorless, then it is w/o type. Similarly, if an oil soluble dye (Scarlet red C or Sudan III) is added to an emulsion and the continuous phase appears red, then it is w/o emulsion.

ADVANTAGES: 1.It

is used as a skin moisturizer , skin cleanser.

2. Softens the skin and provides a shiny texture to the skin. 3.Used as a base on the skin before any other cosmetic application it vanishes from the skin surface once applied.

because

4.Used to blemish any pimples or scars. 5.Prevents skin chapping or roughening.

DISADVANTAGES:1.Skin

allergies due to certain compounds in the cream

2.Skin reactions like itching, peeling, irritation, reddening etc might happen.

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APPLICATIONS:Vanishing cream is used as adhesive for makeup powders.It also reduces loss of moisture from dry skin.Vanishing cream also smoothens skin and keeps it smooth and prevents skin from roughening and chappin .

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