Intro to textiles PDF

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Covers topics Prof Simon Vassie taught in class ...

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IMP OF TEXTILES How they affect specific products Price/ quality relationships Composition and care TEXTILE GROUPING End use categories – apparel (35%l, interior furnishings (35%) and industrial textiles (30%) Fibers-yarns-fabrics Greige goods – unfinished fabric

Cotton  Most prac natural fiber  Versatile fabric  Cotton is graded according to – staple length, color, cleanliness and micronaire  Possesses qualities of comfort, natural absorbency, comfy to skin  Fairly soft hand  Trans seasonal fabric

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Linen Similar qualities to cotton Produced from FLAX plant Cool and absorbent properties Creases easily

Woven fabrics- made by interlacing 2 sets of yarns at right angles Loom – device used to weave cloth and tapestry warp yarns (running lengthwise) weft yarns (filling yarns running widthwise) Grain-refers to visual texture of weave in fabric Three major grain lines –  Straight grain – no stretch  Cross grain – little stretch  Bias grain – when turned 45 degrees, lots of stretch  Off gain – any direction in a woven Selvage

1. Plain weave – Also known as taffeta weave Can be coarse or smooth in texture depending on the fineness or coarseness of thread count used Include fabrics like  chiffon  Organza  calico/chintz(muslin)  batiste  grosgrain  oxford, pinpoint and poplin  Basket weave – variation of plain weave – 2 weaves used to create basket like effect 2. Twill weave- fabric shows diagonal line on the surface Twills can be warp or weft faced Include fabrics such as  Denim  Chinos  Gabardine  Tartan  Houndstooth  Herringbone  Tweed cloth

3. Satin and sateen weaves Satin known for its fluidity, smooth surface, high luster and good drape Sateen is duller compared to satin 4. Crepe

5. Fancy weaves pile weaves – use a 3rd set of yarns to create a raised or hairy surface to the fabric Cut pile fabric – corduroy, velvet, velveteen and Looped pile fabric – terrycloth  Double cloth  Jacquard weaving – brocade, damask, tapestry  Dobby weaving  Ikat weaving

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