Lecture Notes PDF

Preview

Summary

Lecture Notes for Fashion Fabrics with Harriet Mcleod.
Includes notes from every lecture throughout the semester....

Description

Fashion Fabrics (chapter 1)  











The global textile complex p. 11 Textiles- definition o Anything made from a fiber or fabric, flexible material o Common uses for textiles  Air bags  Cotton balls  Carpeting  Fabrics… Fiber o Smallest part of a textile  Can be thinner than a strand of hair o Raw material of a fabric  Analogy of a cake (get eggs, milk butter… out) example of a fiber—the RAW materials o Natural or manufactured Yarn o Fiber -> yarn o Fibers twisted or laid together to form a continuous strand o Most fabric made from yarn Fabric o Fiber -> yarn -> fabric o About 65% of what we wear are knits o Constructed from yarns or o Organized fibers o Garments made from fabrics Finish o Process that modifies how fiber, yarn or fabric  Looks  Feels  Performs  Example: Waterproof, stain resistant Serviceability- TTYP (turn to your partner) o What do you want/need from textile or garment? o Describes the measure of a tactile product’s ability to meet consumers’ needs  Aesthetics  Care  Cost  Comfort  Durability  Safety

 

Environmental concerns Sustainability

Natural Cellulosic Fibers (Chapter 2) 









Textile Performance Concepts and Properties o Elasticity: ability to increase in length when under tension AND return to original length when released  Example: rubber band o Stretch: ability to lengthen or extend  Example: grilled cheese; the cheese never snaps back to place o Elongation: degree of stretching without breaking o Flexibility: ability to bend easily and repeatedly without breaking Physical Textile Cycle o Staple Fibers  Short (inches long)  Example: cotton ranges 0.5-2.5”  All natural fibers, including certain types of silk o Filament Fibers  Long (can be miles long)  All manufactured fibers, including certain types of silk  Made however long the manufacturer can make it Properties Common to Cellulosic Fibers o Hydrophilic or good absorbency (dyes well; dries slower)  Love water and hold onto it o Attached by mildew (careful storage required) o Inflammable (burns steadily in flame and continues burning out of flame)  Even close to the flame they will catch fire  Law about how children’s pjs are made o Good Thermal Conductor- heat is easily transferred through fabric; helps body release heat o Good Electrical Conductor- no static buildup o Low Resiliency- wrinkles badly unless finished for wrinkle recovery  Lots of heat and pressure to get rid of the wrinckle o Low Dimensional Stability o Can be bleached Where do cellulosic fibers come from? o Plant parts  1. Seeds- cotton  2. Stems and roots- flax, hemp, ramie  3. Leaf fiber (not as widely used in US for apparel)- piña, sisal Cellulosic-plant o Cotton-seed fiber- grows inside pod or boll then the pod operns up





 







 



Cotton Classification o Quality is assessed by:  Staple length, grade, character  Best length= longer  Best grade= lustrous, silky, white, clean  Best character= mature, smooth and uniform within bale, fine, strong and has convolutions Cotton-Properties o Matte and low luster appearance o Medium strength o 30% stronger when wet (can be handled roughly and machine washable) o Susceptible to shrinking (poor dimensional stability) o Poor elasticity- does not recover from stretching Major producers: China, India, U.S., Pakistan Variety of cotton: o Upland: predominant variety grown in U.S. o Long staple fibers (considered higher quality): American pima, Supima, Egyptian, American Egyptian, Sea Island o Short staple cotton variety - considered lower grade. o Naturally colored cotton Cotton and Environment: o Cultivation requires a lot of water o Plants is susceptible to insects and diseases – application of chemical pesticides o Tilling causes soil erosion Environment friendly cotton: o Organic cotton o Transition o Green cotton Important cotton fabrics to identify: o Gingham o Madras o Chambray o Denim o Jersey Other Cellulosic Fibers o Bast fibers- stem& root of plant Flax- Major Producers o Major producers: Western Europe, Belgium, France, Italy, Ireland, United Kingdom, Germany, Netherland, Switzerland o Also known as linen Flax- Characteristics o Body (somewhat stiff)

Strength (can be handles roughly; stronger than cotton) Durable Low pilling Low resiliency (wrinkles easily) Low elasticity (can sag and bag overtime) Average length 6”-24” (longer than cotton)  Tow- short flax fibers  Cottonizing: cutting bast fibers to cotton length – loss of hand, luster, durability  Line- long, combed, better-quality fibers  1. Carding  2. combing o Poor dimensional stability- high shrinkage Flax Properties o High natural luster (longer than cotton) o Good conductor of heat (good fabric for warmer weather, tropics) o Can be bleached with chlorine bleaches o Burns easily (inflammable) Structure of Flax o Retting (rotting)- process used to free fibers from plant stalk  Make the plant split open with water or dew o Slightly grayish when dew retted o yellow when water retted o Crosswise markings= nodes (contribute to flexibility) o Thick-and-think texture BECAUSE of the nodes Flax and Environment: o o o o o o











o Few agricultural chemical required o Retting is water intensive o Pulling plants contributes to soil erosion Important flax fabrics to identify: o Handkerchief linen o Linen Other Bast Finbers o Hemp  Coarser and stiffer than flax  Longest fibers from outer region silk  Doesn’t need lots of pesticides  Strong (useful as twine, cordage, thread)  Can grow very quickly  Environmentally friendly

 

Commercial hemp is not recognized in the US because of its association to marijuana plant Hemp and Environment  Has a higher yield  Requires less irrigation  Almost no agricultural chemicals required

o Ramie  Requires hot, humid climate  Fast growing  Stiff, brittle  Strong, strength increases when wet  Dry-cleaning preserves color  Blends well with other fibers in many of its different stages  Common in US  5 stages o Leaf Fiber- from views or ribs of leaf  Example- sisal and pineapple-Pina  Labor intensive=high price tag o Leaf Fibers Characteristics  Usually long and fairly stiff  Limited dye affinity  Often used in their natural color  Garments are typically sheer and light weight, have a stiffness about them o Leaf Fiber- Pine  Leaves of pineapple plant  Fiber= soft, lustrous, white or ivory  Produces lightweight, sheer, stiff fabric Sources of Protein Fibers: Wool, Hair, Silk (Chapter 2 continued) 



Natural Protein fibers o Animal origin (hair and fur) AND o Secretion of silk caterpillar (silk) Properties common to ALL protein fibers: pg. 15 o Hydrophilic (wool is hygroscopic) o Good electrical conductivity (no static) because they are hydrophilic o Environmental effects (moths attack wool and beetles attack silk. Both are not harmed by mold and mildew) o Flame retardant (do not burn easily; will self-extinguish) o Good thermal retention o Wool becomes harsh, brittle, scorches easily with dry heat – use steam.  White silk and wool turn yellow with too much heat  Do not use steam on silk – water stains silk iron it damp o Good resiliency (resist wrinkle), except silk.

o Poor dimensional stability (gentle handling required during laundry) – wool shrinks (felts) o Weight (relatively lighter than cellulosic of same thickness) o Chemical reactivity  (harmed by alkalis- soaps and detergents and harmed by oxidizing agentschlorine bleach) o Weaker when wet o Feels lighter than cotton – loft WOOL

SILK

PROTEIN

Keratin

Fibroin

MAJOR PRODUCERS

Australia, New Zealand, China, Eastern Europe, U.S.

China, India, Japan

ENVIRONMENT

- Soil erosion from grazing. - Labor intensive - Animal waste disposal problem. - Water and chemicals used to clean - Sheep is susceptible to some diseases. fiber and remove sericin.



Sources of Wool o Sheep  Merino sheep (most valuable wool)  (3”-5” long and very fine fibers)  Australia produces 43% of Merino wool  Merino wool= soft hand, lust and good drape  Swatch #12 Merino (SRG) o Goats  Cashmere  Fibers are combed vs. sheared so expensive.  Soft buttery hand, beautiful drape  Angora Goat  Mohair fiber o Slightly coarse fiber. o More lustrous than wool. o Does not pill. o Camels  Bactrian camel  Camel hair Fiber o Warm without weight. o Blended with wool. o Natural tan color.  Llama







 Highly insulating  Coarse fiber  Alpaca  Highly insulating  Soft, silky, lustrous o Rabbits*** hair/fur  Angora rabbit  Angora fiber o Fluffy, soft, slippery, long fibers. o Blended with wool. o Does not dye well o Musk ox  Qiviut  Cashmere-like but warmer  Fleece shed vs. shorn so expensive Wool- Properties o Matte appearance o Drape, texture, hand can vary  Ranges from sheer voile to heavyweight o Durable and excellent flexibility o Will felt o Weakens when wet o Pills  Little balls of fiber that build on top of the fabric, blankets o Good thermal retention o Good resiliency o Does not soil easily o Cohesive – spinning is easier o Hygroscopic – absorbs water and doesn’t feel damp when wet, emits heat. Specialty Wool/Hair Fibers (p15) o Alpaca o Camel- 2-humped Bactrian Camel o Llama- larger the Alpaca o Vicuna* o Mohair- Angora Goat o Cashmere- Cashmere Goat o Angora- Angora Rabbit o Qiviut- Musk Ox* o *= very, very expensive TERMS AND DEFINITIONS (wool): o Quality wool – long fibers, fine diameter, regular scale structure, been cleaned, no defects or coarse fiber. o Worsted wool – longer staple fibers (more uniform in length) produce finer, more lustrous, less fuzzy yarns. Fibers are carded and then combed to straighten fibers. More expensive.







o Woolen – shorter fibers (less uniform in length) produce softer, fuzzier, and warm yarns. Yarns are loosely twisted. o Virgin wool – wool that has never been processed. o Recycled wool – made from scraps of new wool or shredded wool o Wool – new wool or wool fibers reclaimed from knit scraps, broken thread, and noils Silk Natural Protein Fiber o Silk- produced by larvae of a moth o Silk protein=fibroin o Physical Structure  ONLY natural fiber that can be filament or staple length  Will feel different depending on how the larvae is extracted  Smooth, but irregular in diameter along the shaft  Very fine fibers Properties of silk: o Dry tactile hand o Unique natural luster o Hydrophilic o Lively suppleness and draping qualities o Harmed by sunlight o Stronger than wool but becomes weaker when wet  Loses 15% when wet o Natural sound – scroop o Does not pill o Only natural fiber found in staple and filament length. TERMS AND DEFINITIONS (silk): o Sericin: Protective gum that holds the fibers together. o Sericulture: Controlled production of silk – silkworm is killed or stifled to extract filament fiber. Silk worms are fed mulberry leaves. Resulting fiber is white, smooth, lustrous and filament length (cultivated silk). o Reeling: process of winding several filaments together onto a reel. o Raw silk: unprocessed silk in which the sericin is not removed. Filament length. o Silk Noil: obtained from waste like broken cocoons where moth emerged or inner portion of the cocoon. Lower quality and price. o Wild silk: Production is not controlled. Silk worm feed on oak and cherry leaves. Fiber is less uniform, coarser, less lustrous, and staple length. Example: Tussah silk o Duppioni: Irregular yarns with slubs (thick and thin appearance). Produced when 2 silkworms spin their cocoons together. o Momme: Weight of silk. Higher the number, heavier the fabric. o Weighting silk: treating silks with metallic salts to add weight to the fabric after degumming process. Makes the fabric drape better. Improves cover and dye absorption. Makes the fiber very weak.

Manufactured Fibers (Chapter 3)



Fibers o Natural  Cellulose  Protein o Manufactured (MFG)  Man-made  Mfg. Cellulose  MFG mineral  MFG Protein  Pg. 12 o Synthetic MANUFACTURED FIBERS

Regenerated manufactured fibers

Synthetic fibers

(Manmade)

Mfd. Cellulose -

Rayon Lyocell Acetate Bamboo Cocona® 





Mfd. Protein - Azlon (soy)

Mfd. Mineral - Glass - Metallics

- Nylon -

Polyester Acrylic Olefin Spandex

- Aramid

Man-made Fibers o Chemically processed natural material  Raw material found in nature  Melted down with hard chemicals  Processing needed to convert polymers into fiber form  Example: Woodchips= wood + chemicals Generic vs. Trade Name o Generic name- Rayon- family of man-made or synthetic fibers with similar chemical composition  Spandex  Lyocell o Trade name- Bembery- company name for fibers  Lycra  Tencel Why manufactured fibers? o Natural fibers were too expensive for most consumers (example: silk o Improve fit and performance of clothing o Address specific end uses (example: medical) o Attend to environmental concerns (example: less water and less land) o Easy care, e.g., acrylic vs. wool.





How are manufactured fibers made? o 1. Made of natural materials like wood pulp. o 2. Processed with chemicals – melted down into a viscose solution called dope solution. o 3. Dope solution is passed through a spinneret to form fibers. o 4. Fibers solidified by coagulation, evaporation, or cooling. How are fibers modified? 1. Size and shape o Size  Microfibers- denier less than 1.0 (used to make Ultrasuede)  Nanofibers- measured in nanometers  Macrofiber: greater than 1 denier  Ultrafine: less than 0.3 denier Denier- smaller numbers= finer fibers  the measure of fiber thickness. Higher the number, thicker the fiber; smaller number, finer fibers  Generally, apparel end uses= 7 or less denier o Shape Different shapes=different properties  modification is done to enhance certain properties of fibers:  Trilobal – silk-like hand, luster, soil-hiding property.  Hollow – insulating, buoyancy  Molecular structure and crystallinity modifications improves tenacity (strength) of fiber.  Additives: added to dope solution:  Delusterants – reduce the shine of manmade fibers  Dyes – add color – process known as solution dyeing or mass pigmentation.  Whiteners and brighteners – added to make fibers look whiter and resist yellowing.  Crimp: increases cohesiveness, resiliency, abrasion resistance, stretch, bulk, warmth, absorbency, and comfort.  Bicomponent fiber: fiber made of 2 different polymer components – produces crimp in the fiber. Wool is a natural bicomponent fiber – it has inherent crimp. Man-Made fibers o Rayon (viscore and HWM) o Lyocell o Acetate o Azlon (family name) Rayon o Artificial Silk o Oldest Manufactured fiber (1910 production in US) o Types of Rayon:  Viscose  Most common form and oldest  Trade name: Bemberg- Swatch #19 (aka Cuprammonium) 













HWM / Modal / Polynosic  High Wet Modulus rayon  Modification of Viscose  Trade name: Modal- Swatch #20 Properties of Rayon:  Soft cool hand  Moderate to high luster  Low resiliency  Soft fluid drape  Poor dimensional stability  No pilling  High absorbency  No static – good conductor of electricity  Good conductor of heat  Weak fiber – weaker when wet  Poor abrasion resistance  Low elastic recovery Properties of HWM Rayon:  Improvement over viscose rayon – stronger, better dimensional stability  Completely launderable  Stronger when wet than regular viscose rayon  Can be shrink-resistant when treated  Hand similar to high-quality cotton

Lyocell o Originally rayon o 1992- FTC approved Lyocell o Wood pulp (eucalyptus tree) o Environmentally friendly o Trade name: Tencel- Swatch #22 o Properties of Lyocell:  Soft hand – peach skin feel (without fuzz)  Low luster  Soft drape  Moderate resiliency- Better than rayon  Better dimensional stability  Fibrillates and pills  Absorbent  No static – good conductor of electricity  Good conductor of heat  Stronger than rayon  Good abrasion resistance  Good elastic recovery

  





Accepts dyes readily Swatch #22- Tencel Lyocell

Acetate o First thermoplastic fiber- manufactured fibers that melt or softens when exposed to head o Acetate- cannot be heat set (disadvantage) o Inexpensive o Uses:  Linings  Dresses (prom)  Graduation gowns  Swatch #23 o Properties of Acetate:  Crisp, smooth hand  Lustrous  Crisp drape  Poor resiliency (no wrinkles)  Poor dimensional stability  No pilling  Moderate absorbency – fast drying  Some static build-up  Poor thermal retension  Weak fiber – weaker when wet  Low abrasion resistance  Poor elasticity  Heat sensitive  Prone to gas-fading or fume-fading (lining and jacket shell fabric were originally the same color) Bamboo o Soft, silky hand o Soft drape o Absorbent, wicks moisture o Durable, high abrasion resistance, easy care o Naturally antibacterial Azlon o Family of fibers vs. individual name of one fiber o Fibers composed of regenerated naturally occurring proteins. o Examples:  SoySilk®: Soybean waste from tofu manufacturing process  Silk Latte®: Milk proteins  PLA®: Corn o Properties of Azlon:

     

Soft hand Good drape Dyes well Not produced in US Absorbent Renewable and biodegradable

Synthetic Fibers (Chapter 4)  







Figure 2.1 page 12- classification of fibers Synthetics today o Hasn’t been the best business o Viewed very negatively up till the last 7-10 years  Inappropriate end use  Poor comfort characteristics  Poor fashion image  Perceived or actual damage to the environment Manufactured Fibers Synthetics o Majority chemically based o Petroleum or petrochemical o Drape, luster and hand vary depending on construction Thermoplastic Fibers o Melts or glazes at low temperature (heat sensitive) o Both an advantage and disadvantage Properties of Synthetic Fibers: o Advantages:  Texturing filament yarns (Swatch #155, #157)  Thermal bonding nonwoven fabrics  Applying thermal finishes (example: permanent pleats #206)  Sealing raw edges  Thread-less stitching  Easily modified  High resiliency and high strength  Easy care, quick drying  Low shrinkage  Thermoplasticity  Abrasion resistance  Sunlight resistant  Light-medium weight  Nylon* (is modified to improve sunlight resistant) o Disadvantages:  Pills – especially staple length synthetic fibers  Hydrophobic – low absorbency







 Poor conductor of electricity – static build-up  Oleophilic – absorb oil and grease – stains  Thermoplastic- softens or melts o Acetate, nylon, polyester, and acrylic are thermoplastic fibers o Acetate* fibers cannot be heat set  Is man-made vs. synthetic fiber Nylon o First synthetic fiber and first developed in US o Chemical composition: Polyamide o Trade names: Supplex®, Gore-Tex®, Antron o Swatch #29- Ripstop, #110, #145, #148, #172… o Properties:  Light weight  Excellent elasticity  Good resiliency  Aesthetic properties vary  Wind and water resistant  Wicking (improvements made for use in thermal underwear, actionwear and footwear)  High tensile strength  Excellent durability – high abrasion resistance  Static and pilling issues  Color scavenger o Think of hot air balloons: lightweight and strong Acrylic o Swatches #30, #82-83, #114… #42 (wool/acrylic) o Substitute for wool – so staple length fiber o Also used for fun/fake furs o Loft, high bulk, soft – warm without weight (think of a marshmallow) o Wicks o Bulk...