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Jacquemus x Empowering Female Artists Subject 1: A collaboration between a luxury brand and the art industry

Luxury Marketing

15/11/2018

Table of content: -

introduction (cas) - introduce everybody/ introduce our subject luxury brand - history (cas) - positioning (guillaume) - market strategy (guillaume)

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art brand - history (coline) - positioning (coline) - market strategy (valentine)

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alliance/collaboration strategy (tiphaine) - how do the luxury and art brand benefit of this alliance (tiphaine) conclusion (valentine)

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Introduction This paper was written as a final report on our Luxury Marketing course, together with our group we have conducted research on how different brands can create a luxury analysis. In the following paper we have described our findings and analysis over two different brands and their collaboration. The collaboration described and explained is between the fashion brand ‘Jacquemus’ and ‘Empowering Women’. We will first give you a bit of background information and history on both factors, following with how they position themself in the market and what their market strategy is. After discussing both factors, we will explain in detail how we will get them to collaborate and create their alliance. Finally, the most important part, we will analyse in which way both parts will benefit of this alliance.

JACQUEMUS

« Je m’appelle Simon, j’aime le bleu et le blanc, les rayures, le soleil, les fruits, les ronds, la vie, la poésie, Marseille et les années 1980. »

SIMON PORTE to SIMON PORTE JACQUEMUS Presentation X myth Simon Porte was born into a relatively modest family of farmers. His parents get hobbies completely different for their work because his father used to sing in metal bands and his mother liked interior design and decoration : it is probably these aspects that gave him the interest of art. At 18, he went to Paris to study fashion at the School of Fashion Arts and Techniques (ESMOD), then he left this program to work as Artistic Assistant at Citizen K , job that he also left. More important fact in his life : the death of his mother around his 20 years old. This event was like an “electroshock” according to him, this led him to create his own fashion house. Then he became Simon Porte Jacquemus. He made himself known by having his creations worn to friends during the Vogue Fashion Night Out of 2010 in Paris which is a recurrent event during FW. Same way at the show Dior in 2011, the same friends worn his new collection “Ourvière”, under a banner “JACQUEMUS EN GRÈVE”. During 3 years, his main obsession was to create buzz and impressions through media. Thanks to this, he was invited to present his collection during Paris Fashion Week in 2013. According to him, the press was mainly interest because he was the only new and young designer presenting a collection at a FW, what is was quite rare. Before his fashion show “Le Souk” at the Petit Palais in February 2018, he posted a picture of him in Instagram where he wrote : “More than thirteen days before the show. Very excited to announce something very special” accompanied by the hashtag #newjob. People who did not have the intention to go to his show was embarrassed : being present at the show was essential to know the news. If the mother of the creator was often the source of his inspirations (Jacquemus was her maiden name), love was mainly the source of his decision. When he started to draw for men until this winter, this is because he fell in love to another men. The first Man collection by Simon Porte Jacquemus took place this summer, during the Paris Fashion Week : and yet, he decided to organize this fashion show in Marseille, where he grew up.

What about his creations, what is the spirit?

In terms of style, the fashion house can describes creations as pop and cheerful, simple and elegant. In terms of origins, Jacquemus comes from the native region of Simon Porte i.e. Salon de Provence in the department of Bouches-du-Rhônes. In other words this is the Mediterranean inspirations which lead his creations. Moreover, those creations are born with his references at Courrèges, Cardin, which according to the designer “something very French, both playful and sporty, with freshness, a smile, a unity”. Pablo Picasso is really appreciated by him. He saw a drawing made by the painter when he was 8 and he was fascinated by it. His uncle was a friend of Pablo Picasso and cubism movement became an inspiration. Even many people think that erotism where present on Picasso’s paintings, according to him, Picasso was trying to capture the torture and the torment of women through his paintings, something very black. During one of his parades, he decides to make up his mannequins with a double face: obvious inspirations of the painter's paintings.

POSITIONING : “la mode joyeuse” Throughout the seasons, Simon Porte has given the female figure freedom of movement and interpretation of forms that was often lacking (a little bit like what Coco Chanel did). The haute-couture house want to be cool and accessible, not in terms of distribution and price, but in terms of spirit and experience which is really contradictory with the luxurious world and expectations. He describes his creations as a “naïve” fashion. His women breathes the party, and independence, she assumes and likes to go out while remaining simple and accessible, she’s playful and childlike. This obsession of childhood can be created by the lack of his mother, he wants to remember a world and a time with her. A world where he was happy and complete. Regarding the distribution channel, the brand proposes its creations, on it website, in stores New York, Paris, London and others big cities where they are present.

 Marketing Strategy As for the strategy, it is not far to look. Like young people nowadays, the artistic directors is omnipresent on social networks (750 000 Instagram subscribers). A presence that contributes precisely to the cool and accessible image of the Haute-Couture House. His communication strategy is based on internet : social media and also e-shop.This digital strategy is a mark of originality and spontaneity. In fact, he realizes his instagram in the way of a secret diary with no filter and staging his own life. In his eyes : “Instagram, c’est mon cerveau, sans filtre. C’est très personnel. C’est un tout. Parfois, je publie des choses que je ne devrais pas mettre, mais je ne peux pas m’en empêcher. » It pleases people that we see his personal life. It also creates a proximity effect with consumers which reinforce the accessible image of his Haute-Couture House. This strategy of communication allows breaking frontiers and sharing his creation with the whole word. He dedicates for example all this collection at subjects which remember his

roots like “le gadjo” and shares the pictures on Instagram to show his universe. He breaks the rules because he doesn’t keep the old traditions. In fact, he shares his creations via the digital world. He said : “La frontière entre le virtuel et le réel n’existe pas pour ma génération (…) les frontières, c’est du passé : aujourd’hui tout est lié, on vit dans le digital, on est le digital.”

Regarding more the creations, we know that in luxury nowadays, people are more looking for experiences than buying goods in themselves. What Jacquemus does is that he creates goods (clothes, bags, shoes) proposing experience : - with the collection “Zouk”, Jacquemus proposing to women to feel like Iranian women. - with the collection “Rivieira”, Jacquemus proposing to women to feel like Italian women and so on.

Let’s take as an example this look : According to the designer, this entire look is dedicated to spanish women who went to bullfight at the time of Picasso.

JACQUEMUS IDENTITY PRISM representing the brand identity according Jean-Noël  Kapferer PHYSIQUE -

House Name «JACQUEMUS» Big accessories (Hat and Bag)

PERSONALITY - - -

Raw

state Youthfulness Freshness

RELATIONSHIP

CULTURE

Mainly based on exchanges via social media. Few pieces (exclusivity) IT-GIRL endorsement: Kendall Jenner, Emily Ratajkowski, Jeanne Damas (a it-girl knows perfectly how to use nonchalance/ detachment/ disinterest)

Proposing travel experiences via creations and looks. Art is the variable the most important when he’s creating something. He creates a trend “Art is a way of life” through clothes, shoes, travels, homes.

Nevertheless, it-girls release something warmthful thanks to clothes and the staging. REFLECTION - -

Real

trend Movement JACQUEMUS: he gave freshness to art.

SELF-IMAGE - - - - - -

Confident Free Fashionable «

Breathes the party »

Playful Childlike

The movement, The most powerful and influential women working in the art industry The fact is that, in the history of art, women were perceived as a muse and a model for the creations and paintings of men. Since the early 1970s, women have increased their engagement in the sector by becoming an artist rather than a model, host instead of guest and director instead of visitor. Many men in the art industry have become extremely famous in representing their vision of women through their creations as Pablo Picasso did as we can say before. This paintor erotismed women and created a desire for everyone. A report made by an artist on the Met Museum, located on Manhattan, denounced that only 4% of the artists on the Modern Art sections were women while female representing 76% of the nudes present on the museum. Niki de Saint Phalle, Miss Tic, Orlan, Lady Aiko, or Barbara Kruger are women artists, sculptor, photographer, architect, fighting with their creations for parity in each sector of art. They are using their creations and their skills to fight a cause : art gives them power to fight for a cause and to be heard. This movement is very successful regarding the number of articles published on it : “The 10  he most explicit was the “The 100 most influential women in art” published by Vanity Fair. T most powerful women” by Forbes , these annual rankings are expected by everyone around the world because they show the reputation of someone. In the 2017 issues, at least 20 women present on the first 100 most powerful women in the world were working in the art industry.

Philanthropy is part of the power of influence By definition, people realizing philanthropic actions are people putting the cohesion of humanity at the forefront of their priorities. Art and philanthropy can be a really important combination for many influential artists and women: many of them want to promote art and culture, or also fight for gender equality / equality by achieving philanthropic actions that give visibility to causes. The key to awareness is the strong demonstration of the positive impacts that a person or an organization has on its beneficiaries : it's important to appreciate the shared value and the overall well-being that brings the cultural initiative. Philanthropy became very successful and

powerful nowadays it’s no longer perceived as a simple gift but as a moment of visibility : today is ambitious and innovative. It asserts itself, is measured, develops at high speed.

COLLABORATION According to his history and culture, Simon Porte always idealized woman, Jacquemus is going to collaborate with “the POWERFUL WOMAN”. We therefore want to make a fashion show with women of power in the world and those in all fields of art. As we have already said, Jacquemus has always been very close to his mother and he gets affection and desire from women weaknesses. Then, he understood that women have powerful feelings this is why he always see the woman as strong : “ Le désir de faire des vêtements est venu parce que j’étais obsédé par le fait de voir des femmes à la télé, fasciné par tous ces caractères différents. Leurs moments de timidité, de fragilité me touchent. Peut-être que j’essaie de retrouver ma mère en elles maintenant. ” That's why this parade would be a tribute to his mother but also to show the power of the woman and his sensitivity. We know that for a brand of lux to work and endure over time, it makes you dream and create the myth. Here all these women create the dream among consumers. They mostly inspired us in our personal lives and helped us find our voices. It is to create this myth and to always believe in our dreams even with all the obstacles of the lifetime. As Kapferer and Bastien would say, "Be unique" here all these women are different the product will never be the same because each person brings « a plus » to this product and that is what makes it unique. It reflects « the you », your personality, your choices, your commitments, your strengths, your sensitivity, Just you. A second anti-law performed by Kapferer and Bastien which is really important in this case “Do not try to be perfect, be emotion”. The house luxury, and especially the designer, loves women with their singularity, the obstacles in life that they had to face and those who hit their personality. Simon Porte Jacquemus he’s in love with women in raw state. Remember last May, for the 71th Festival de Cannes, when 82 women opened the festivities by climbing the red stairs. In addition to being powerful women (powerful by their achievements, by their career, or powerful by their degree of influence all around the world and the sector of art), they created a powerful and emotional moment : the goal was to decrease inequalities on average income between men and women, but also guarantee parity on the artistic sector.

The Artists: “The most alluring thing a woman can have is confidence.” Beyonce

The painter : AIKO Nakagawa is born in 1975 in Japan. She's a street artist Based in New York where she works and lives since the mid-90s, she is recognized as one of the most emerging artists in the world and our millennium. Aiko is a Japanese artist who has made a name for herself in the very masculine world of street art. Since the 90s, she has the chance to work with Takashi Murakami (another visual artist 6th in the ranking of the most expensive artists in the world). This success continues with his participation in the FAILE crew and then solo. She is an artist who paints without any claim, but her works highlight women who are powerful, glamorous and sexually liberated. It's a form of feminism and a powerful message praising women

Dancer : Sylvie Guilhem is born in 1965 in Paris, was spotted from very young age by Claude Bussy who makes him integrate officially the dancing school of the Opera in 12 years. From the age of 16 years, the dancer makes part of the body of ballet. We notice on her an ease on the fluidity of movements, his technicality and its dramatic qualities which are going to make of her a gifted child of the dance. On December 24th, 1984 she is named first dancer. A few days after it is Rudolf Noureev, himself, who crowns her principal dancer further to the performance in "the Lake of Swans". In only 19 years, it becomes the youngest star of the history of the Opera of Paris.

The singer: B  eyoncé is born on September 4, 1981 in Houston, Texas, she is a singer-songwriter. In January 2017, it sells more than 185.5 million records worldwide and becomes the most sold artist in the year 2000. Beyoncé is also a committed woman, she puts her messages in the lyrics of these songs. That's why we notice very quickly the cause for which she fights: "Black women"

Madonna is born August 16, 1958 in Bay City, Michigan, is a singer, actress, dancer, director and American businesswoman. Also known as the Queen of Pop, she was voted the Guinness Book of Records as the most sold singer of all time (more than 300 million).

But that's not all Madonna was also voted "Woman of the Year" by Billboard magazine, she took the opportunity to support a special cause for her, sexism. Indeed, Queen herself was a victim of sexism during her career. "I was compared to Satan," said the American star, in a feminist and salutary speech.

Architect: Amelia Tavella is born in Corsica (France). Thirty-year-old woman received the prize of “Young woman architect” in 2016. Amelia chooses to express herself in the work of material. She want us to take a sensual look at her achievements as well as the of one we carry on the body of a woman. She also play a lot with light, which is also one of her main asset. With its experience and expertise she use her markets to solicit other great artists. We can found close to her the talented Gérard Traquandi.

Actress: Meryl Streep is an American actress, born on June 22, 1949 in Summit (New Jersey). She is considered one of the best actresses of her generation with 3 Oscars, 9 Golden Globes, 2 BAFTA and more than 20 American and international nominations. She also become the most renowned performer in Oscar history, men and women alike. But Meryl Streep has always struggled with the fight for gender equality. She is for the equality of women in the workplace. As in most of her films and through the characters she embodies, she delivers an important message. For example, the film "Suffragettes" encourages women to take part in change and defend their beliefs. She has a voice and it is that of a committed woman.

Emma Watson : Famous for her role in Harry Potter, she stands out lately by being a feminist icon. She is an ambassador of women at the ONU and she is very active in the mouvements HeforShe and Time’s up.

Kate Winslet is a British actress, born on October 5, 1975 in Reading (England). She is a very committed woman. At the fourth WE Day, which is a day dedicated to youth empowerment and helping to change the world in a positive way. Kate Winslet gave a lecture in front of 12,000 people to witness the school bullying and body shaming she experienced. It is a cause that is particularly dear to her heart and that she will continue to defend for years to come. Movie Writer/Director: Lena Dunham is born in New York on May 13, 1986, was an American actress and director. She has made many movies, series and video. Tiny Furniture and the television series Girls broadcast on the HBO channel.

In 2015, she launched Lenny Letter, a weekly newsletter that claims to be feminist. A cause that belongs to him at heart. Isabel Coixet is born April 9, 1960 in Barcelona, she  is a director, scriptwriter, and Spanish producer, alternating feature films and documentaries. Isabel Coixet was the winner of the Goya ceremony (an event that gives the highest awards in Spanish cinema) with her film "Handia", a film about feminism, a cause of honor at this ceremony.

Writing : Joanne Rowling is born in 1965 in Yate (United Kingdom) Joanne Rowling is the author of the famous Harry Potter saga. Her books have been translated into nearly eighty languages and have sold over 500 million copies. A true success that will give it the title of the most influential woman in the United Kingdom according to the editors of the largest British magazines.

Miss Universe : Demi-Leigh is born June 28, 1995 in Sedgefield, Western Cape, South Africa. Young woman of 23 years was elected Miss universe in 2017. Before embarking on her modeling career, she earned a degree in Business, Management and Entrepreneurship from Northwestern University. Having become an influential woman after her election, she wanted to set up self-defense classes and workshops to help more women defend themselves in any situation.

The model fashion: Natalia Vodianova i s born in 1982 in the Russian city of Nijni. She started her career with many contracts like Calvin Klein, Guerlain, Etam, Stella McCartney ... She also makes some appearances as an actress. She has become the highest paid model in the Calvin Klein brand's history in recent years. Em...