Surfing Speech - Grade: A PDF

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Professor Linda Clark...

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You’ l lNev erBe“ Boar d” —ABegi nner ’ sgui det os ur fi ng. Howmanyofy ouhav eev ers ur f edbef or e ?Howmanyofy ouhav ewant edt ol ear n? Sur fi ngi sac ools por t ,buti tc anbeal i t t l ei nt i mi dat i ng.I ’ m her et ogi v ey ouac r as hc our s eon t hebas i csofs ur fi ng !Eac hofy ouneedt oknowhows ur fi ngwor k si nor dert ounder s t and,and may beev ent r yi t !I ’ m hopi ngt hataf t ert hi ss peec h,af ewofy ouwi l lev ent ual l ygi v es ur fi nga s hot .Fi r s t ,I ’ l lt el l y ouguy showt opr epar et oc at chawav e,howt opr act i c et oc at c hawav e,and howt oac t ual l yc at chawav e. Thefi r s tt hi ngy ouneedt odoi spur c has eas ur f boar d.I fy oudon’ tpl anons ur fi ngr egul ar l y ,y ouc anal wa y sr entone,ofc our s e.Ther ear eaf ewt y pesofs ur f boar ds ,l i k et hel ongboar d,f unboar d,s hor t boar d,fi s h,andt hegun,butbegi nner ss houl ds t i c kwi t hl ongboar ds . They ’ r el ar gert hant her es t ,andnotasagi l e,butmuc hmor es t abl et hant hes mal l ers hor t boar d orfi s h.Nex t ,y ouwantt ogets omes ur fwax .Sur fwaxhel psy ouk eepy ourgr i pont heboar d, andi spr et t yes s ent i alt os ur fi ng.Thebot t om oft hesur f boar di ssl i pper y ,ands oi st het opi fy ou don’ twaxi t .Nex t ,y ouneedt ogr abal eas h.Leas hesar es el f ex pl anat or y —t heyanc hort hes ur f boar dt oy ourankl e,s ot hatwheny ouwi peout ,y ouwon’ tl os ey ourboar d.Fi nal l y ,y ou’ l l pr obabl yneedawet s ui t ,dependi ngont het emper at ur e.Wet s ui t sr et ai nbodyheati nor dert ok eep y ouwar mi nt hatf r eez i ngc ol dwat er .I fy ou’ r ei nHawai i andt hewat eri sper f ec t ,y oumayj us t needas ur fs hi r ti nor dert ok eept hes ur fwaxf r om i r r i t at i ngy ours ki nandc aus i nganas t yr as h. Nex t ,y ouneedt ok nowt her ul esandet i quet t eoft hewav es .Fi r s t ,t her i derc l os es tt ot he peakofawav ehast her i ghtofway ,whi c hmeansdon’ tt r yt or i deawav ei fanot hers ur f eri sbehi ndy ouandal r eadyr i di ngi t .I fhedoesac ut bac k ,hec oul ds mac ky ouups i det hehead!The ex c ept i ont ot hi sr ul ei si fi t ’ sas pl i tpeak ,i nwhi c hc as ey ouj us tr i det heot hersi dei fpos s i bl e. Sec ondl y ,andpr obabl ymos ti mpor t ant l y ,don’ tdr opi nonot herr i der s .Thi si ski ndofr el at edt o t hefi r s tr ul e.Bas i cal l y ,i fs omeoneel s ei sal r eadyr i di ngawav e:DON’ TDROPI N.Si mpl e.Fi nal l y ,don’ tpaddl edi r ec t l yi nf r ontofs omeoner i di ngawav e.Thi smays eem obv i ous ,butI ’ v e s eenpl ent yofi di ot st r yt oav oi dget t i ngk noc k edbac kt ot hebeac hbycut t i ngi nf r ontofas ur f er . Don’ tdoi t . Nowy ouneedt ofi ndas pott osur f .Thebes twayt ofi ndagoods ur fs poti st oas k ar ound.Local s ur fs hopsar eal way shappyt ogi v ey out i psont hebes tpl acest os ur f ,andt hel oc al s ur fj unk i esar eus ual l ypr et t yhel pf ul .I fal l el s ef ai l s ,c hec koutt hei nt er net —s i t esl i k eSur f Li ne. c om hav eex cel l entupt odat esur fc amsandr epor t st ohel py ouc hoos ewhi c hbeac h. Youhav efi ni s hedpr epar i ng—nowy ouneedt opr act i c e!Bef or ey ouev ens t epoutont hebeac h, mak es ur ey ou’ r ei npr et t ygoodshape.I tdoes n’ tmat t erwhet hery ou’ r ebi gors mal l —y ouj us t needt obei ngoodphy s i c al condi t i on.Youwi l lbeus i ngy ourar ms ,l egsandc or et hemos t : pus hupsandpul l upswi l l i ncr eas eupperbodys t r engt h,s i tupsandpl ank swor ky ourcor e,and r unni ngorbi k i nghel pswi t hl owerbodys t r engt hands t abi l i t y .Al l t hr eeoft hes ear ev i t alt os ur f i ngs uc c es s ,s omak esur ey ou’ r ei npeakphy s i c alc ondi t i onbef or eget t i ngoutont hewav es . Thi smays ur pr i s ey ou,buty ou’ l l bedoi ngal lofy ourpr epar at i onOUToft hewat er !I t ’ s ac t ual l yal oteas i ert os ur fi fy ouknowy ourwayar oundas ur f boar donl and,fi r s t .Get t i ngout s i dehel pi sc r uc i al —as kaf r i endorr el at i v ewhok nowss ur fi ngwel lt ot eac hy ou,ory oucoul d hi r eani ns t r uct or ,whi c hi swhatIdi dmyfi r s tt i me.Theywi l lwal ky out hr oughhowt o“ popup”on y ourboar d,whi c hI ’ l ls howy oui nas ec ond,ont hebeac h,andpr obabl yhav ey oupr ac t i c ei ta f ewt i mesunt i ly ougetc omf or t abl e.Theywi l lr unt hr oughs omesc enar i ost omak es ur ey ou’ r e pr epar edt ohi tt hewat er ,andt heny oumaygr ababoogi eboar dt oex per i encet hatf eel i ngof bei ngc aughtbyawav e.Onc ey ou’ v epr ac t i c edandf eelc omf or t abl e,i t ’ st i met ohi tt hewav es . Ri di ngawav ec anbebr ok endowni nt ofi v es t eps :Get t i ngt oy ours pot ,t ur ni ngar ound, c at c hi ngt hewav e,poppi ngup,andr i di ngt hewav e.

Fi r s t ,paddl et oy ours pot .Mak es ur ey ouus egoods ur fet i quet t eandr es pec tot her s ur f er s .Al s o,mak es ur ey ouei t herduc kundert hewav esorhi tt hem headon—don’ tl ett he wav eshi ty ous i deway sory ou’ l l gets weptt ot hebeac h. Onc ey ou’ r eaty ours pot ,t ur nar oundandf acet hebeac h.Nowi t ’ st i met owai t —bepat i entandwai tf oragoodwav e ! Ok ,s oy ous eeagoodwav ecomi ng.Paddl eashar dasy oupos s i bl yc an,andt r yt o c at c ht hewav ebef or ei tbr eak s .Thi si soneoft hec ool es tpar t sofsur fing—whent hewav e c at c hesy ou.Af t erpaddl i ngf oraf ews ec onds ,y ou’ l l f eel y our s el fmov i ngf as t er .t her e’ snoot her wayt odes c r i bei t ,ot hert hant hewav ej us tc at chesy ou.I t ’ si nc r edi bl ey ourfir stt i me. Nowi t ’ st i met odowhats ur f er sc al l apopup.Fi r s t ,pl acey ourhandsundery ours houl der satt heedgeoft heboar d.Then,i fy ou’ r eabegi nner ,br i ngy ourk neesundery ourwai s t .I f t hi si soneofy ourfi r s tt i mes ,y oumayhav eahar dt i mebal anc i ng.Wheny ou’ r er eady ,pus h y ourbodyupwi t hy ourar ms ,s wi ngy ourf eetunder neat hy ouandbal anceont wof eet .Mor e s eas oneds ur f er sus ual l ygos t r ai ghtf r om t hepaddl i ngt os t andi ng,buts i nceI ’ m onat abl eI won’ tt r yt hatnow!Oncey ou’ r eup,don’ ts t ands t r ai ghtup,t hat ’ st hebes twayt ogetk nock edoff. St ayl ow,ex t endy ourar ms ,andk eepy ourkneesbent .Fi nal l y ,cont r olt heboar dwi t hy ourbody . Asabegi nner ,y ous houl dpr obabl yr i det hewav es t r ai ght ,whi c hmak esy ourr i deal ot l es sbumpy ,buti sn’ tqui t easf as t .I fy ouhav eamor emaneuv er abl eboar d,y ouc anangl edown andt ak et hewav eatamor eaggr es si v eangl e.Thi si smor edanger ousandf as t er ,buti sat on mor ef un!t hi swayy ouc anal s odos omet r i c k sl i k ec ut bac k s . Onefi nalnot e:don’ tbeaf r ai dt obackoffofawav ei fy out hi nki t ’ st ool ar ge.Bi t i ngoff mor et hany oucanc hewy ourfi r s tf ewt i meswi l l onl yr es ul ti ni nj ur y . I nconc l us i on,I ’ v ey ouhowt opr epar eandt r ai nf ors ur fi ng,andhowt oac t ual l yc at c ha wav e.Nex tt i mey ou’ r eatabeac h,gi v es ur fi ngat r y—i tmaynotbeasdi ffic ul tasy out hi nk .“ Wat er ”y ouwai t i ngf or ?...