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The “New World” in Ancient Rome

Kayla Coutinho AR105B Dr. Kristan O. Lord Wednesday, April 1st, 2020

Introduction: As the topic for this creative project describes, I was to find two recipes that have modern adaptations to the ingredients list from the original “ancient roman recipe.” From this, I will summarize and reiterate the instructions for the cooking process of these recipes. Hence, the author of “Roman Cookery: Ancient Recipes for Modern Kitchens”, Mark Grant will be the greatest contributor to this assignment. Therefore, I will try to understand the process of making these dishes during the time of ancient Rome as well as the changes to creating the dishes in modern times.

Garum: “A recipe for garum. What is called liquamen is made like this. Fish guts are put into a pot and salt is added. Use small fish, particularly smelt, red mullet, sprats or anchovies, although any other fish is fine. Salt all these fish in the same way and leave to ferment in the sun, shaking the pot frequently. When it has fermented in the heat, draw the garum from the pot like this: a big sieve with a fine mesh should be placed in the middle of the pot containing the fish and the farum strained into the sieve. Whatever passes through the sieve is called liquamen and the remaining sludge is called allec. The people of Bithynia have this recipe: ideally take large or small sprats, but otherwise anchovies, horse mackerel or mackerel, pile them up together and put into the sort of trough which bakers use to knead dough. To each modius of fish add 2 Italian sextarii of salt and mix together. Leave overnight and then put into an earthenware pot. Place the open pot in the sun for two to three months and stir with a pole from time to time. Then take the pot, cover with a lid and store. Some people also add two sextarii of old wine to each sextarius of fish.” 1 “400g/13oz sea salt 700mL/24fL oz water 1 Jar of salted anchovies (100g/31/2 oz) A pinch of dried oregano 1 tbsp sapa (reduced wine sauce)”2 1

Mark Grant, Roman Cookery: Ancient Recipes for Modern Kitchens (London, England: Serif, 2008)) Ibid

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The method for creating this sauce has changed. Traditionally, one would be expected to use the insides of the fish (intestines,etc.) in the process but that is no longer desired by new-age cooking. Also, instead of leaving it in the sun and waiting for it to cook, “new world” techniques would boil the sauce as directed by the original recipe. Upon adding the salt to the water, lower the heat and test it for sufficient saltiness by adding an egg and ensuring it floats. Once the brine is ready, the anchovies are ready to be added along with the oregano; another new world addition to the recipe. Then the reduced wine would be added. The original recipe would have the produced liquid strained several times until it is clear. However, the adapted version would call for it to simmer under medium to low heat for about twenty minutes and then allow it to cool. Finally, strain it using a cloth or something that would create a similar effect. The garum would then be ready for storage. The author added that dried oregano would be preferred as it is more attainable and delivers a better taste than the fresh herb does. The major difference in the “new world” modifications would be the time difference it would take to make this recipe as the traditional way calls for months of waiting rather than almost immediate results. 345

Puls Punica: “Cook carthaginian porridge like this. Put a pound of emmer groats into water and ensure that they are properly soaked. Pour the emmer groats into a clean bowl, add three pounds of fresh cheese, half a pound of honey and one egg, and mix everything together well. Transfer to a new pot.” 6 “300g/10oz Cheddar cheese 100g/31/2oz wheat flakes

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Ibid Sally Grainger, “Garum and Liquamen, What’s in a Name?,” Journal of Maritime Archaeology 13, no.3 (2018): pp.247-261, https://doi.org/10.1007/s11457-018-9211-5) 5 Christianne Muusers, “Welcome,” Coquinaria, accessed April 2, 2020, https://coquinaria.nl/en/roman-fish-sauce/) 6 Mark Grant, Roman Cookery: Ancient Recipes for Modern Kitchens (London, England: Serif, 2008))

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60g/2oz clear honey 1 egg”7 Grant noted in his book that the original recipe reads as if there was more to the descriptive instruction than given; there is no mention of how to actually “cook” the dish. However, it is assumed that the recipe requires such a task. Also, the mention of “emmer groats” is high protein wheat used in pastry foods such as pasta, bread, etc. 8 He adjusts the recipe to incorporate wheat that is more commonly found in the new world and common health food stores- wheat flakes. The adaption of the old recipe begins by grating the Cheddar cheese (used in replacement of fresh cheese) and mixing it with the wheat flakes. Preheat the oven to three hundred-eighty degrees Fahrenheit; the “porridge” has a more accurate consistency to a pudding than what is now recognized as porridge and requires baking. The next step is to whisk the egg and add it to the cheese and wheat substance by folding it and lightly pushing it down until there is an even surface. The final instruction is to cover the baking container with the mixture and place it in the oven. The adapted recipe states the dish should be served hot and with honey if desired. 9 This dish was described to be spongy and very cheesy. The description of the adapted version is understandable as Cheddar cheese today is processed and has added artificial flavouring to create a stronger taste. As the cooking description for the ingredients was left to the imagination the final product probably differs from the original.

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Ibid “Ancient Grains: Emmer (Grains),” Grains (Penn State University), accessed April 2, 2020, https://plantscience.psu.edu/research/projects/grains/heritage-grains/emmer) 9 Mark Grant, Roman Cookery: Ancient Recipes for Modern Kitchens (London, England: Serif, 2008)) 8

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Conclusion: In conclusion, I have become better informed of the daily dietary habits of the ancient Romans. I have also become better acquainted with the changes in cooking methods, process times, and readily available ingredients from the ancient time to the “new world”. Although Mark Grant tried to keep the adapted versions of the recipes as similar to its original counterpart as possible, there are many obvious differences; the greatest and most significant being time and cooking process. Months would go into preparing a simple dish that would now take minutes. With consideration to the desire for immediate satisfaction that has become part of the “new word” culture, ancient Romans must have found greater patience and satisfaction in such simple dishes than we would now.

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Citations “Ancient Grains: Emmer (Grains).” Grains (Penn State University). Accessed April 2, 2020. https://plantscience.psu.edu/research/projects/grains/heritage-grains/emmer. Grainger, Sally. “Garum and Liquamen, What’s in a Name?” Journal of Maritime Archaeology 13, no. 3 (2018): 247–61. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11457-018-9211-5. Grant, Mark. Roman Cookery: Ancient Recipes for Modern Kitchens. London, England: Serif, 2008. Muusers, Christianne. “Welcome.” Coquinaria. Accessed April 2, 2020. https://coquinaria.nl/en/roman-fish-sauce/.

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