7-1 Final Project Part One - Critical Analysis Portfolio - Skylar Wahl PDF

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Critical Analysis Portfolio

7-1 Final Project Part One: Critical Analysis Portfolio Skylar Wahl Southern New Hampshire University August 10th, 2020

Critical Analysis Portfolio I.

Introduction:

One of the most persistent evils of our current times is gender inequality and it greatly affects all different aspects of popular culture. Women are under-represented as they face “cultural and institutional obstacles in male-dominated industries” (Vic, 2019). Due to unconscious bias, poor workplace environment, poor recruitment practices and more, women are pretty much excluded from the highest levels of decision making and leadership all across the board. Women have always been under-represented in the majority of industries such as: business, finance, science, technology, engineering, medicine, construction, as well as government. Historically, over the centuries, women have fought to have enter the workplace and their wardrobes clearly shifted with that as they wanted to express themselves in more powerful ways. Looking through the humanities lens, this artifact continues to influence popular culture by advancing androgynous trends and breaking stereotypes. In terms of the natural and applied sciences lens, these clothing garments contributes to the evolution of women in the future and influence them as they continue to strive for actual equality. In society, women’s pantsuits has allowed people to accept the diversity of gender expression and push for true equality and change. By examining the influence of Women’s Pantsuits through the lenses of history, humanities, natural and applied sciences, and social sciences, it will be clear that Women’s Pantsuits have influenced modern society as they are symbolic for power and freedom that have allowed women to push patriarchal barriers. II.

Lens Analysis a. Historical Lens

Throughout history, fashion has always been constantly changing. Starting in the 1900s, nearly every decade, the fashion fads that were on-trend would change as people got bored and

Critical Analysis Portfolio grew out of them and into new ones. The term “pantsuits” has been around since the 1860s, but back then they were only referring to suits worn by young men as real suits came with long pants, and pantsuits came with short pants for boys (Wright, 2016). In 1870, actress Sarah Bernhardt wore a custom-made Worth pantsuit and was painted in it as she “was all about subverting gender norms” (Wright, 2016). About 30 years later, in 1910, the American Ladies’ Tailors’ association created the “suffragette suit” in direct response to the hobble skirt, “which was hemmed so tight at the ankles that it made it hard for a woman to take unrestricted steps” (Greenberg, 2017). After the 19th amendment was passed, guaranteeing women the right to vote, the concept of “casual chic” was adopted. Women were working more and becoming more active, so designers such as Coco Chanel, in 1925, began accommodating to the working women and gave them “real arms, real legs, movements that were authentic and the possibility to laugh and eat without, necessarily, having to faint," (Greenberg, 2017). It wasn’t really until the 1930’s that pantsuits actually became somewhat popular. Many more women started wearing pantsuits referring to them as “masculine style lounge suits” but they still remained an item to be worn by fearless women only (Wright, 2016). The 1940s were dominated by “wartime silhouette” and new styles such as the military look emerged. More women were entering armed services and close to 350,000 women served during that time. After the war, in 1947, the “New Look” was introduced by Christian Dior and his bar suit changed fashion history, giving the world the modern “fit and flare” style (Greenberg, 2017). Many women during the late 1940s and throughout 1950’s were urged to leave the workforce and embrace their more “maternal” roles. Many women began to be dissatisfied with that and craved a more fulfilling life, which led to the rebirth of the feminist movement in the 1960’s. During the 1960s and 1970s, Feminist were not the only ones who were challenging

Critical Analysis Portfolio what it meant to be or “look like” a woman or a man, rather it was also “hippies, student and anti– Vietnam War activists, and Black Power advocates, [who] all appropriated self- fashioning styles as part of their political activism” (Hillman, 2013). As the 1970s hit and progressed, there was a huge movement of women going into the workforce and they wanted to be taken seriously so they emulated men’s dressing, wearing pantsuits with a masculine edge. However, women did struggle with this because many men wanted them to look like “women”, not “men”. In 1971, one “California judge made headlines when he chastised a female attorney for wearing a pantsuit in his courtroom”, he was “threatening to find her in contempt of court and send her to jail for five days if she did not “change into more appropriate clothing””, such as a dress (Hillman, 2015). Inspired by the women’s movement, many American women fought for the freedom to wear pantsuits and miniskirts at workplaces and at schools (Hillman, 2013). The amount of women who were consistent on challenging workplaces and their acceptance of pantsuits kept growing so much that it became far too numerous for the employers to ignore. Workplaces such as hospitals, business firms, “insurance companies, law firms, restaurants, and banks across the country” gave the nod to women’s pantsuits as acceptable office attire and most institutions began to accept them widely in the mid-late 1970s (Hillman, 2015). According to a survey of Atlanta business, 83% of local businesses allowed women to wear pants to work (Hillman, 2015). By the 1980’s, the trend of the power suit was at an all-time high and the “power woman” design became all about the menswear-inspired jackets and the 1990’s were a lot more laid back and minimalistic; women were gaining financial freedom, no longer relying as much on men and started making their own independent choices while wearing whatever they wanted. That didn’t mean the fight was over, as matter of fact it is far from over.

Critical Analysis Portfolio For example, in 1999 the discrimination was still very much still alive and active. The U.S. Bankruptcy Judge Massie Tillman in Tarrant Country, Texas, banned women lawyers and witnesses from wearing pants in his courtroom. He was the first judge to ever institute a written policy about women’s clothing as the new dress code stated, “Women are to wear a dress, skirt and jacket, or skirt and blouse in the court room. Women are not to wear pants or pantsuits” (Off Our Backs, 1999). This caused outrage among women all over. Some women stated that it was unfair because it limits women’s flexibility in the courtroom, which makes it harder for them to act out crime scenes or pick up objects without being uncomfortable and exposing themselves, while other women noted that they did not take women and their clothing into consideration in the courtrooms (Off Our Backs, 1999). The courtrooms are often times very cold and drafty as the temperature is set for the comfort level of the judge who is in a wool robe, according to Westfall who is a “felony prosecutor with Tarrant County's district attorney's office” (Feminist Majority, 1999). Today, women are very much still discriminated against in the workplace, but they continue to strive forward and work in male-dominant spaces. The pantsuit is still very relevant as power dressing is popular and it makes women feel more confident. By looking at pantsuits through the historical lens, it is clear that this artifact is much deeper than just pieces of fabric. It is a symbol for women’s rights, power, freedom, and the push of patriarchal barriers. b. Humanities Lens Looking through the humanities lens, pantsuits have truly brought so many women together and continues to do so. Pantsuits traditionally were not considered to be a flattering outfit for women as they were designed to mock the men’s professional style. However, over the years, designers have experimented with the pantsuits and different styles to create new trendy looks; for example, they might do this by adding more feminine features. In our current society,

Critical Analysis Portfolio stereotypes regarding clothing, hair length, hair length, color of skin, weight, etc., are all stubborn and still unfortunately prevalent. “Just as the suffragists had been lampooned as pantswearing Amazons for decades after the Bloomer costume disappeared, the popular image of the bra-burning, man-hating, hairy-legged feminist became lodged in the popular consciousness” (Paoletti, 2015). One of the most relevant and recent examples regarding pantsuits and presentday society would be the 2016 presidential election with Hillary Clinton. In 2016, the pantsuit came back into style and got extremely popular as Hillary Clinton was the democratic candidate and women were excited to see another woman in power. Clinton is not new to the pantsuit trend as she has worn them since 2000, due to her career path. She became considered a trendsetter while running for president and inspired many people. Though Hillary Clinton lost the 2016 election and many women were crushed, it was a step in the right direction and it showed women that they can be powerful, much like the pantsuit shows. There were pantsuit parties in solidarity with Hillary Clinton as well as social media pages for “Pantsuit nation”. Pantsuit Nation, is basically just a space full of uplifting and positive message as well as giving them the platform to share photos of themselves in their favorite pantsuits (Pandell, 2016). It is really nice because at this moment, there is a show for more nonbinary and gender neutral clothing options. Pantsuits have allowed many nonbinary people to feel more comfortable as androgynous fashion is becoming mainstream once again. Gender identity has become an international conversation across all different cultures, especially among teenagers, and these androgynous trends, like pantsuits, allow nonbinary people to be who they are and have a sense of community with people who accept the diversity of gender expression (Krischer, 2019). Pantsuits allow humans to be simply that, just humans while uplifting women and breaking traditional stereotypes.

Critical Analysis Portfolio Personally, I love pantsuits and believe that they have helped women be confident and successful in both their personal and professional lives. It is so important for us as women to recognize we “come from a long trajectory of resilient women that have fought for equality; confronted and challenged gender, social, political, economic, and racial barriers (among many other forms of discrimination); and amplified several generations to build the groundwork and change the landscape for women” (Silva, 2017). As a women who plans to continue a career in International Business, analyzing pantsuits through these different lens has gave me a deeper appreciation for pantsuits and the progress women have made so far. History is very rich with countless models of women who have reshaped and redefined the roles of women and have positively been reconfiguring the power of women, while striving to instill how women are integral to society (Silva, 2017). The pantsuit really does reflects today’s society because now more than ever, women are empowered to be leaders and are still ready to continue to strive for an equal and inclusive future. c. Natural and Applied Sciences Lens Natural and applied sciences study “the physical world to help us better understand ourselves and our place in nature, and nature’s role in shaping us” (IDS 404: The Four General Education Lenses, n.d.). Pantsuits are very gender neutral, which makes women feel more empowered and equal to men. I believe that since the pantsuit has become so widely adopted by women over the last several decades, it will continue to be a gender-neutral clothing staple. When looking at history, women adopted the pantsuit to project male power but now, they are wearing them for “the power and autonomy inherent in themselves” (Segran, 2019). This garment could contribute to the evolution of women in the future as they continue to strive for actual equality.

Critical Analysis Portfolio Currently, women are using their emotional intelligence to their advantage, much like men have formulated to use aggression and intimidation in leadership positions across all industries (Quy, 2016). There is not a lot of scientific research to prove the common belief that women are naturally better at emotional intelligence than men; however, at a young age, women are given permission by society to be empathetic, whereas men are told to “toughen up” and that “boys don’t cry”. For instance, “evolutionary psychologists claim that males are more aggressive than females because they can gain greater access to females by competing violently with other males”, but perhaps as society and popular culture changes, women and men will evolve to become more alike biologically and psychologically (Alba, 2017). Regardless, it is important to get an accurate understanding of ourselves naturally so we understand human nature and can move forward to change society for the better. Women, particularly Black women, deal with stereotypes and prejudices constantly in the world of business. Many Black women feel as if they need to adopt “borrowed identities” to fit in and often are in uncomfortable work environments (Creese, 2015). Women of color face much more than just having to prove they are emotionally intelligence. It is so important to recognize the anatomy of the pantsuit through not only a gendered lens but also a raced lens because women of color are standing at the intersection of gender, race, and class (Washington, 2008). This means that they can wear a pantsuit or not, yet still experience under-discussed social realities that influence leadership roles in all industries, including law, business, and medicine during the 21st century. d. Social Sciences Lens Social science “is the study of society and the relationships between people. Subjects included in this lens are psychology, sociology, anthropology, political science, economics, and

Critical Analysis Portfolio geography. This study of human behavior and interaction can sometimes overlap with the humanities lens, which also studies different cultures” (IDS 404: The Four General Education Lenses, n.d.). Social sciences for pantsuits overlap with all of the other lenses. The pantsuit has greatly influenced popular culture and modern society while also impacting social issues, such as women equality. Your personal fashion style does not just impact other people’s impressions of you but rather, it also affects how you think and feel about yourself. Women’s pantsuits have become a symbol of power and freedom in our modern society. This garment is used as a tool for many women to be more professional and allows them to express themselves in a very powerful way. The pantsuit was definitely not, historically, met with approval under the male gaze and many men viewed or still view the pantsuit as a female costume (Edwards, 2018). When looking at the psychology of clothing, it is apparent that clothing sends many nonverbal cues to other people and automatically shows others how much power you wield, how much influence you have, how smart you are, and how much you earn (Edwards, n.d.). It makes sense that women would feel more powerful in an outfit that was originally created for men in power who are often associated with prestige, recognition, and social acceptance. Wearing a pantsuit can heavily sway the impression one wants to get across to society. The social science lens helps articulate a deeper understanding of the social issues that have happened and continue to happen to women in leadership, who have turned to pantsuits as a powerful communication tool. As mentioned in the humanities section, during the 2016 presidential election, Hillary Clinton very much became a trendsetter as women were excited to see a woman run for president and gained more hope for the power of women in leadership positions. For example, celebrity Evan Rachel Woods was inspired by Clinton as well as many

Critical Analysis Portfolio others at the Golden Globes wore pantsuits after the year of pantsuit nation. Kimberly ChrismanCampbell, who is an art historian whom focuses on fashion and textiles, stated “I don't think the pantsuit is going to go away anytime soon. I think we're going to keep seeing that as a tribute to the new idea of women as potential presidents, as powerful figures” (Hoover, 2017). Women are continuing to progress towards male-dominant leadership positions and it is exciting to see. By studying culture, society, and different human relationships with pantsuits, it can help one understand what women have gone through to get to where they are today to improve their lives, while giving a new perspective to those who may have been ignorant to the relationship society has had with women’s pantsuits. III.

Conclusion a.

Integrating the four lenses truly helps people understand how popular culture artifacts, such as women’s pantsuits, impact others in both personal and professional contexts. By examining the influence of Women’s Pantsuits through the lenses of history, humanities, natural and applied sciences, and social sciences, we are able to see just how much of an influence women’s pantsuits have modern society as they have been and continue to be symbolic for power and freedom. Historically, the pantsuit has allowed women to push patriarchal barriers, further themselves in the workplace, and be more confident in power. From the humanities lens, brought so many people together, women and non-binary people alike, to create a community of empowered people ready to be leaders. Women’s pantsuits allow women to continue to strive for an equal and inclusive future in the workplace as well as empowers them to stand up for themselves in personal situations. When looking through the natural and applied sciences lens, these popular culture artifacts can help us get an accurate understanding of ourselves naturally so

Critical Analysis Portfolio we understand human nature and can move forward to change society for the better, whether that is with a job or any relationship. With society, wearing a pantsuit may be intimidating or powerful in social and personal settings but it can also heavily sway the impression one wants to get across to society with work as well, as the pantsuit has become a very powerful communication tool, especially in professional contexts. b. Social practices have been greatly shaped by popular culture artifacts in modern culture. Since popular culture is so linked with social media now, it has become a lot easier to spread one’s culture across the globe and create a global-like society. A huge heated discussion on social media right now actually stems from this. Many teenagers and young adults are using drag slang and/or African American Vernacular English (AAVE) on social media, which has led to many non-Black people using AAVE and claiming it as “Stan-culture”. This can be upsetting, especially for Black men and women, because much of the current dissemination and popularity of AAVE is due to corporate marketing and companies separate to be cool and attract the teenagers when they’ve been looked down on the way they speak their whole lives. The whole point is that “AAVE, when used by African American people, is often associated with “undesirable” parts of society like poverty, drugs, violence, and gangs. But when corporations or white people use it, they are co-opting its “cool” potential for their own gain — and giving nothing back to the community that created it” (Tremeer, 2019). There is a fine line between cultural appreciation and cultural appropriation and it is crucial for people to realize they could be unintentionally harming those who they want to protect. Popular culture can be an amazing thing for many in social situations because it allows them to build and strengthen...