CTE 2800 Exam 2 Study Guide ( Jesse) PDF

Preview

Summary

study guide...

Description

CTE 2800 Exam 2 Study Guide

International Fashion

 Understand the Global Nature of Fashion o Why the fashion industry became a global nature:  World wide exchanges of ideas, talent, materials, products  Designers move to other countries  Companies seek expansion through exports

 Understand the influences each Country had on fashion and what they were best known for France  Fashion is one of France’s top 3 exports  Paris:  A lot of influence on the industry  Necessary resources and creative atmosphere  Started off with haute couture:  Most exclusive couture reserved for the very best design and highest qualities of fabric and workmanship  Couture, Federation Francaise De La Couture:  Membership is based on high standards of excellence and special requirements  Not only French designers  Couture, Women’s ready-to-wear, Men’s wear  Chambre Syndicale de la Courture Parisienne o The managing body of the federation, dictates rules about workrooms and collections  Pret-a-porter- ready to wear o Italy  Moda Pronta- Italian RTW (their primary focus)  Losing manufacturing competition to ASIA  What did Italy contribute to the fashion industry?  Milan (capital) center for RTW  Knit wear, leathering and tailoring, beautiful fabrics, quality production o England  London (mostly known for men’s wear)  Capital  Known for men’s tailored  Classic wools, cashmere, innovatie young fashion  Savile Row  Known for classic men’s business attire  England created the “punk look”  Luring young customers  Bespoke  Custom-tailored o

o Canada  NAFTA: North American Free Trade Agreement  Export 30% of production to USA  They have benefited from NAFTA  Canada, USA, Mexico o Participate in NAFTA o Free trade without tariffs (taxes) o United States  New York City  Regional Fashion Centers  LA, San Francisco, Chicago, Dallas, Miami, Seattle, Portland  WWII we became the forefront, why?  US grew as a result of European Maisons (house) closing during WW2  Communications to Paris were cut off  Better known for our “sportswear”  Large companies dominate the market  7th Ave garment district, NYC  Lost apparel productions due to countries with cheaper labor

Product and Design Development 





Understand what influences a target market o Companies are defined by its customer and identified by its style o Companies must find a niche o Companies are in business for a profit o Maintaining an identity o Manufacturers focus on certain styling, while incorporating current trends specialize in  Price range  Gender  Size range o Must develop a product that fits the lifestyle of the customer (demographics)  Where the live?  What they drive?  Where they eat? Understand the responsibilities of a Product Development Team o Market and trend research o Merchandising (doesn’t just mean making the store look pretty) o Design o Development of the final product The definition of “Merchandising” and merchandising activities o Planning to have  The right merchandise  In the right time  In the right quantity

At right price  Remember…always driving sales o Manner in which garments are presented to the public o Merchandising activities:  Setting financial goals, budgets, price points  Making merchandise plans  Planning line size  Planning fabric purchases  Scheduling production and deliveries  Controlling product flow  Presenting the finished line to the sales staff Cost Merchandising o Loss leader can attract buyers o Higher fabric costs must be balanced by simpler construction  Loss leader  An item sold at less than the regular wholesale price for the purpose of attracting retail buyers to other merchandise  Retailers bought it for more than they are selling  Trying to attract customers to buying other things o Average markup  Raise prices o Low-balling vs. High-balling  In sportswear, shirts often cost out higher than pants and skirts because of expensive fabrications and labor. Therefore, the shirt price may be lowered so that it is more acceptable- LOW-BALLING  Whereas, the skirt and pant prices are raised- HIGH-BALLING o Based on costs of last season’s styles o Fabric and production process affect price o Price is adjusted for discounts Scheduling o Must integrate all phases of product development o If you don’t get product on time you’ll have to mark it down o Schedule deadlines for styling, finished samples, and production to meet shipping dates o Merchandisers meet with designers, sales staff production managers  A lot of coordinating Merchandise Plan o Developed for each season (4-5 seasons) o There are seasons…each season has a different one  Designers begin planning 8-10 months in advance  Has 2.5 months to complete the line  Work on multiple lines during this time o Staggered delivery dates  Putting out new merchandise, not putting everything out all at once 



















o Merchandiser determines the number of groups, fabrics, and styles required to meet sales goals Design Development o Creativity: big influence, fabrics set them apart  Enhanced by fabrics, workmanship o Freedom can enhance trend creation o Designer interprets trends for their customer o Concept boards Groups o Each group has a particular theme:  Fabric  Color  Fashion direction Definition of a knockoff o Knockoff:  A copy of someone else’s design, usually already a best-seller Know the design elements o Fabric- the selecting of appropriate style for a fabric or the right fabric for a design  Characteristics:  Texture  Performance  Hand, and weight – o Hand: how smooth o Weight: heaviness or lightness o Color- The first element to which consumers respond  Quality control is BIG  Color is one of the elements of design  Hue (name of color)  Value (darkness or light)  Intensity (dullness and boldness) o Line- The direction of visual interest in a garment created by seams, opening, pleats, gathers, tucks, topstitching, and trims Know the design principles o Proportion o Balance (asymmetrical and symmetrical) o Repetition (repeated) o Focal point (point of focus) Steps to developing a Sample Garment 1. Methods a. Draping (3-D molding on the form) i. Ideal for soft, flowing designs ii. Couture dresses, and evening wear iii. Design is often altered as it develops on the form b. Flat pattern

i. Cut out basic shapes, and then form it all together ii. Uses angles, rulers, and cures to change existing board patterns iii. (done on paper) c. Computer patterns i. All done on the computer 2. Prototype garment sewn a. Made by the sample-maker, must be tested as the garment is sewn b. Usually done in the factory so the garment can just be tested there c. Check for fit and total effect, fitted on a model 3. Tested for fit and effect

Terms to understand  CAD: computer aided design o Gave the designers a chance to create patters o Have more flexibility  PDM: product data management o Keeps everything organized  CMT: cut, make, trim o Process you go through  CAM: Computer aided manufacturing o Programmable sewing machines  CIM: Computer integrated manufacturing o Connect systems such as CAS and CAM o Gives them flexibility to manipulate  RTW: ready to wear  EDI: electronic data interchange o How they sync up o Made following and tracking things easier  WGSN: world global  WWD: women’s wear daily o Trade publication

***Apparel Production and Global Sourcing 



Know the three major divisions of apparel (fashion) manufacturing and their relationship o Design: without design, there would be nothing to sell o Production: without sales, there would be no reason to produce o Sales: would not continue if orders were not produced properly and delivered on time Production Planning o Cut to Order:

safest method, wait for all orders before beginning production, reserved for couture o Cut to Stock:  riskiest, cut on sales estimates, necessary for basics, start in slack months Sourcing Contractors o Pros:  No payroll in slack times  no hiring, training, wage concerns  no investment in plants and machinery  provides production flexibility o Cons:  Extra movement means increased costs and increased losses  Communication problems  Possibility of late deliveries o The role they play in the industry:  They specialize in sewing knits or wovens  They are used for many different jobs US Apparel Production o Who are the influencers in the business?  China o Importing Procedures:  quality control  on-time delivery  communication o 2nd tier countries:  Vietnam, india, Indonesia, mexico, bangladesh o Asia: Plants are efficient, flexible and offer quality products, Hong Kong produces only high quality clothing, china is primary producer, Vietnam is becoming main driver, howly wages are $.62 o 3 Overseas Production Methods:  Production package- Full responsibility for production, quality control and the delivery schedule  Cut, Make, Trim (CMT) – buy fabric from one country, send it to a factory of another country to be cut, sewn and finished  Offshore Assembly- fabric is purchased and cut in the US, sent to mexico or the Caribbean countries for sewing. o Industry concerns:  Loss of domestic production (tariffs)  Consumer demband for reasonable prices  Investor demad for high profit margins  NAFTA caused manufacturing jobs in the US to be low  Sweatshops  US concerned about working conditions, particularly overseas  Task force set up  Factory monitoring programs 







 

o Production Costing: an exact calculation of the cost of the garment requires actual material figures and labor figures. o Cost Consideration: materials, trimmings, production patternmaking, grading, marking, spreading and cutting, assembly, finishing, freight, duty and quote, overhead o Wholesale pricing: Labor, materials, overhead, shipping, markup Product Data Management o Factors to consider when buying piece goods  Environmental concerns  Volume purchases  Small orders  Orderings  Trimmings  Fabric quality  Dye lots o Three types of Garment Assembly:  Progressive- section work (assembly line)  Whole Garment- sew the whole garment  Modular –Team concept Computer Technology used: CAM; CIM Computer Automated Machines Knitwear Production: o Cut and Sew: garment made from knitted fabrics, over lock stich is used o Full fashioned: shaped on the knitting machine, individual pieces joined together

Accessory and Fur Manufacturing 



  

Why are accessories important o More important than RTW o They make more money o It’s easier for them to enhance the fashion industry and predict fashion trends Production: o Each category uses a different type o Counterfeiting: trademark infringement, difficult to control internationally Marketing: marketed differently by Type & Price o Accessories spend more on marketing Footwear Industry o Production: CAD;  Last (the most expensive part, made first, to fit the shoe and fit the foot) Highlights of the following categories: o Handbags:  Seasonal changes  Fabrication o Belts:  Apparel driven o Gloves:





 Coats  2years in advance  linings important o Hats:  Decline in use  two collections a year o Scarves:  Silk Screen  marketing materials important o Hosiery:  Declining  Competitive  Use of EDI (helps to keep their stock in) Jewelry o Fine- Diamonds o Bridge- Use of precious materials and semi-precious stones, priced lower than fine jewelry (bridge between costume and fine) o Costume- Mass produced, trendy, inexpensive o Watches: Fashion accessory Fur Manufacturing Effects on the industry o What has affected the industry?  PETA  Declining domestic production o Fur Production:  Skin- on-skin: Less costly, full skins sewn together  Letting-out method: Mink, sable coats, enhances draping, splitting each skin into stripes o Fur labeling:  Fur species, country of origin, type of processing and dying, if furs have been reused

Additional Material and Classroom Speakers  BCBG o PAD  Partner shop, store within a store o  Kelvin Rutledge – Interviewing  Cover Letters/Interviewing  Email Etiquette  Library Info o WGSN- Worth Global Style Network o WWD- Women’s Wear Daily...