EXAM 3 Study Guide PDF

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SOAD F203 textiels in fashion study guide for exam 3 ...

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What fiber was the first manufactured fiber? ○ RAYON ● Rayon mimics which natural fiber? ○ SILK Generic and Trademark ● Generic name: name given to a manufactured fiber based on the chemical composition ● Internationally, generic names are defined in accordance with the International Organization for Standardization (ISO). ● In the US, generic names and definitions of manufactured fibers are established by the FTC under the Textile Fiber Product Identification Act. ○ FTC requires that generic names be specified on garment and other product labels. ● Rayon generic and trademark --> lycra, tencel ● Generic name for the type of rayon that has a closed loop spinning process? ○ LYOCELL ● Trademark name: assigned to a fiber that meets specified criteria. The symbol after the name indicates a trademark ® indicates a registered trademark. ○ Used to protect the products from being copied/counterfeited ● Trademark name typically assigned by the fiber manufacturer ● Why trademarks?? ○ Performance of trademarked fibers in the same generic group varies. Manufactured fibers are often engineered to meet the performance requirements of the intended end use of the product. (ex: polyester fibers used for sports shirts can be engineered to wick the moisture and sweat away from the body and to improve comfort) Fiber Properties ● Abrasion resistance: fibers ability to resist damage from rubbing or surface contact. Contributes to durability. ○ Nylon, polyester, (synthetic) ; Sensitive to abrasion: acetate, lyocell ● Tenacity/tensile strength: fibers strength per unit size. The ability to withstand a pulling force. Contributes to durability. Strong: nylon, polyester…Weak: rayon, acetate ● Elongation: measure of the fibers ability to extend when it's pulled along its length until it breaks. Better tear strength, provides "give". Strong: spandex Poor: aramid ● Elastic recovery: ability of the fiber to return to its original length after it has been stretched. Contributes to fit, appearance, resiliency. Good: spandex Bad: cotton, rayon ● Resilience: ability of the fiber to recover after it has been deformed by compression. Wrinkle recovery. Resilient: polyester, wool. Non-resilient: cotton, rayon ● Flexibility: fibers ability to bend or fold without breaking. Flexibility affects fabric hand, drape, comfort. It also affects resistance and edge abrasion. Excellent: silk, wool, cotton. Poor: glass ● Moisture properties: includes absorption and wick-ability (ability of fiber to transfer moisture). Dependent on chemical composition, polymer structure, fiber shape, and fiber fineness. Finishes may affect moisture properties of fibers, yarns, and fabrics as well. ● Absorption: fibers ability to take up water. Absorption of water by fibers affects many

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properties of fabrics including comfort, static buildup, dimensional stability, stain removal, dye ability, and other wet manufacturing processes. ○ Hydrophilic: absorbs water ○ Hydrophobic: doesn't absorb water, repels water ○ Hygroscopic: fibers that absorb moisture without feeling clammy or wet Affinity for oil: fibers ability to adsorb and absorb oily substances. Based on their affinity for oil, fibers are grouped as ○ Oleophilic (afifinity for oil) ○ Oleophobic (no affinity for or repels oil) Acids and alkalis: fabrics are exposed to acids and alkalis during the manufacturing process and during use and care. Detergents are alkalis used for cleaning. Acids are commonly used in textile processing. Stains and perspiration are examples of alkalis and acids that may damage fabrics in everyday use. Oxidizing agents: chlorine bleach, hydrogen peroxide, and sodium perborate are examples of chemicals commonly used in textile processing and cleaning. They should be used with care as they may damage some fibers. Oxidizing agents affect stain removal and cleaning. Resistance to microorganisms: depending on their chemical composition, fibers may be susceptible Resistance to insect damage: protein and cellulosic fibers are food sources for insects. The ability of a fiber to resist insect damage affects fabric care and storage choices. Resistance to sunlight: exposure to sunlight may cause degradation of certain polymers. Generally the UV component of sunlight causes degradation. Resistance to sunlight is dependent on the chemical composition of the polymer. Effect of heat and flame: fibers that melt when heated or burned are known as thermoplastic fibers. ○ Thermoplastic: change its shape with heat

Regenerated Nylon Polyester Olefin ● Rayon ○ Wet spun: plant, cellulose, dope, filtered, spinneret, acid bath ○ Absorbent ○ Heavy with soft drape ○ Weak, not resilient ● Lyocell ○ Closed loop, better for the environment ○ Eucalyptus ○ Stronger than rayon ○ More expensive ○ Less likely to wrinkle ● Acetate ○ Thermoplastic ○ Very shiny, inexpensive ○ Weak, not resilient

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○ Not abrasion resistant, needs dry cleaned ○ Dry spun: cellulose, dope, filter, spinneret, evaporation, acetone collected Nylon ○ Thermoplastic, oleophillic, hydrophobic ○ Excellent resiliency, excellent strength, elongation, abrasion resistant ○ Melt spun, cheap production method Polyester ○ "the great imitator", PET or PETE ○ Thermoplastic, oleophillic, and hydrophobic ○ Excellent thermal retention, abrasion resistance ○ Low elongation and elastic recovery ○ "permanent press" setting…resiliency Olefin ○ Polypropylene, polyethylene ○ Very inexpensive, easily melted and recycled ○ Recycling: 2/4/5 ○ Oleophillic, hydrophobic, extremely strong, abrasion resistant, slippery, resistant to UV light, lightweight ○ Although hydrophobic, does not have static issues

Sustainability issues: nylon ● Impact of petrochemical industry: drilling in sensitive environments, oil spills, refinement and production of chemicals, use and disposal of hazardous chemicals. ● Does not need cleaning of raw fiber, melt-spun so there's no chemical residue or solvents to recover Sustainability issues: polyester ● Some production uses catalytic agents that contain heavy metals and toxic chemicals. These compounds can contaminate water and soil. TOPHAT REVIEW ----● Acrylic was developed as a substitute for which natural fiber? ○ Wool ● Acrylic was modified to make mod-acrylic, the first SEF. What do the letters in SET stand for? ○ Self extinguishing fiber ● Name a fiber that is an elastomer ○ Rubber, spandex, lycra, lastol, elastoester ● If you want a garment to have stretch and be form fitting, youneed 100% spandex textile ○ False ● Crocs are made of… ○ Polyurthane ● Compared to rayon, lyocell Tencell is ○ Stronger ○ More expensive

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○ More resilient ○ Better for the environment Nylon is somewhat elastic Typically under the recycling symbol are the letters "PP" which stands for "polypropylene" ○ Olefin Plates and bowls that look like ceramics, but are actually shatter resistant plastic, are made of ○ Melamine Raw material is dissolved by chemicals and spun into a chemical bath ○ Wet spinning Neoprene has a thin layer of which elastomer ○ Rubber The most heat sensitive? ○ Olefin Least abrasion resistant? ○ Acetate Most absorbent? ○ Rayon Least absorbent? ○ Olefin Most resilient? ○ Nylon Most tenacity? ○ Nylon Oleophillic --> hydrophobic Coolmax and hollofill are trade names for ○ Polyester Useful properties of aramids? ○ Extremely strong ○ Doesn't melt only burns at high temps Trade name for bullet proof vests? ○ Kevlar Trade name fiber used for firefighters ○ Nomex Dry inside uses what technology to wick water through fabric ○ Nanotechnology...