Fashion Fabrics - Lecture notes all notes PDF

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WEEK 2  Where are textiles used? o Athletic clothes o Fashion apparel o Home furnishings o Vehicles o Hospitals o Accessories and shoes o Military and industrial applications o Ecological textiles  What makes you buy a clothing item? o How it looks o Cost o How it looks on o Construction o Fit o Materials o Print o Brand o Texture o Quality and price Serviceability- a textile products ability to meet consumers’ needs. Will it work for what it is intended for.  Aesthetics  Care  Cost  Comfort  Durability  Safety  Environmental concerns

Textile supply chain (doesn’t always happen in this order)  Fiber  Yarn  Fabric  Dye & print  Finish  Goes to end manufactures

Primary Materials  produce raw materials o fibers, chemicals  turn raw materials into components o yarns, threads, fabrics o dyes and finishes  sell to manufacturers of component or finished goods  produce up to 2 years before the finished product is sold to consumer

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Where do materials come from? o Animals o Plants What are textiles companies? o Chemical farmers who engineer fibers, dyes, and finishes  DowDuPont, BASF o Farmers, ranchers, and herders who provide raw materials Textile industry careers o Textile technologists or engineers o Textile designed o Textile testing technician o Dye or finish chemist o Sales and marketing representative Fiber and fabric properties o Fiber length o Fiber surface texture o Fibers chemical makeup o Yarn type used o Fabric construction method

Week 3 

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What are fibers o The building blocks of fabrics and yarns o All fibers are unique Fiber length o Staple fibers- short length, measured in inches or centimeters  Shorter staple = fuzzier product  Longer staple = smoother product  Most natural fibers are only staple length. There are finite lengths

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 Manufactured fibers can be cut to staple length o Filament fibers- continuous lengths of fiber, measured in meters, miles, etc  Smooth  Naturally shiny (lustrous)  All manufactured fibers begin this way  Silk is the only natural filament Fiber Categories o Natural  Cellulose (they are staple length)  From leaves (ex.piña),  stems (bast) (ex. Flax) o longer processing than cotton o more expensive than cotton o fabric referred to as “linen” o much stronger than cotton o absorbent and wicks moisture away from body  dries quickly o conducts heat (breathes) o wrinkles very easily (low resiliency stability) o does not shrink as much as cotton o no pilling o distinctive texture, hand, and body o little need for pesticides o hemp  was imported because of restrictions in the US  seed pods (ex. cotton) o widely available worldwide o cheaper than most natural alternatives o higher quality options (longer staples)  Egyptian o Absorbent. And slow to dry o Conducts heat o Wrinkles easily (low resiliency) o Shrinks easily (poor dimensional stability) o Stronger when wet (better for washing) o No pilling   

Quality based on hand: Staple length, fineness (diameter) ALL are staple fibers

o Synthetic o Manufactured cellulose WEEK 4

Natural Protein Fibers  From animals

 Silks

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o Mostly from silk worms o Some development from spider silk o Silkworms extrude fiber to form cocoons o Fiber is degummed o Cocoons are unspun o The only natural filament fiber Types of silk o Cultivated silk  Finest quality, unbroken filament fibers o Wild silk  Staple fibers, thicker yarn with “slubby” appearance o Dupioni silk  Two joined together  Thick and thin, “slubby” appearance in finished yarn Properties o Very thin- thinnest natural fiber o Naturally smooth and lustrous o Strongest natural fiber o Does not shrink easily o Very absorbent o Dyes easily Uses o Expensive compared to alternative fibers o Limited supply and intensive processing End uses o Formal wear, blouses, skirts o Things that take advantage of its luster, drape, and smooth hand

 Sheep wool

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o sheep are sheared o sorted according to quality o wool is cleaned o high end wools (finer diameter) o high end wools include: merino wool and lambs wool wool properties o lower strength and weaker when wet o insulating (retains heat)  naturally crimped which provides bulk o excellent absorbency

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 dyes well  INITIALLY it repels or wick water o Shrinks due to scaly surface o Pills End uses o Sweaters o Outerwear o Cold weather o Tailored suiting  Made from finer wools o Quality indicated by fineness and staple length  Worsted: longer staple, smooth and dense yarn  Woolen: shorter staple, thicker and fuzzier yarn

 Specialty hair or fur

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o Mohair (goat) o Angora (rabbits)  A lot of brands don’t use angora because it is inhumane how we get it o Llama, alpaca, vicuna o Cashmere (goat) Properties and uses o Insulating (retains heat) AND lightweight o Many are soft and very fine o Low strength and pill

 Eco Friendly Options

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o Wild or “peace silk”  Silkworms are not harmed o Organic wool  Sheep are fed organic feed. Cleaned without harmful chemicals  Fiber length Fineness (diameter) Most are staple fiber (except one)

WEEK 5 

Manufactured fibers o From chemical solution using different sources o Always manufactured as a filament o Can be cut into staple fiber if desired o Why do we keep using manufactured fibers?

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 There is always a search for improved performance properties  Improved performance techniques  Cheaper alternatives  Reduced environmental impacts  A match with a broader lifestyle or fashion trends o Polymers  Basic building block of ALL fibers  Long molecular chain of repeating units  These units and or their arrangement change from fiber to fiber  Billions of polymer chains in one fiber  Polymer solutions (chemicals with either mineral, plant, or protein polymers included) are chosen according to the fiber type you want  Polymer solutions are extruded through holes to produce long filaments  Think of how natural silk is made  EX.  Liquid is extruded through spinneret  Fibers come out as filaments  Different methods based on how polymer solution is solidified.  We can alter properties before/during/after extrusion by changing  Shape and fineness  Length of fiber  Luster  Color  Texture/crimp  Flammability Manufactured Cellulose o Regenerated cellulose  Ex. Rayon, lyocell  Polymer comes from cellulose sources  Cotton fiber waste or wood chips  Little of the cellulose material is altered so it retains many cellulosic fiber properties  RAYON  First manufactured fiber-1910  Marketed as an alternative to silk  Also known as Modal, viscose  Lower cost than many natural alternatives  Wonderful drape  Luster can be changed based on manufacturing  Extremely absorbent  Weaker when wet  High shrinkage  Poor wrinkle recovery

 Produced silk or linen like fabrics. Lower cost velvets  Draped or silky looks for blouses, dresses and skirts  Blended with cotton or linen for pants, blazers  LYOCELL  Developed in the 1990s  More expensive than rayon  Trademark name Tencel  Closed loop production process using non-toxic solvent  Tendency to form fuzzy fibers on fibers surface  Stronger than rayon and does not shrink easily  Drape and absorbency similar to rayon  ACETATE  Lustrous and drapes well  Thermoplastic (melts)  Builds static  Fades easily  Cheap  Typically dry clean only  Low temperature ironing  Very cost alternative to silk o Derivative cellulose  Polymer also comes from wood or cotton waste  The chemical process alters the original cellulose until no longer present  Does not retain cellulosic properties  EX. Acetate 

Synthetic fibers o From chemical compounds (petroleum based) o Think of plastic o Nylon o Polyester o Acrylic o Olefin o Spandex o Properties  Dry quickly  Resist water based stains  Produce static  Poor absorbency  Lightweight  Thermoplastic (except for special use fiber) o Care

 Overall easy care  Resist wrinkles and shrinking  Typically relatively strong  Can melt (thermoplastic)  Lower iron temperature necessary  Pill more easily o Polyester  The #1 fiber used today  Less expensive than natural alternatives  Very versatile  Active wear, casual apparel, formal wear o Nylon  First synthetic fiber -1939  Again, a silk substitute  Very strong  More expensive as polyester  Hosiery, lingerie, carpeting  Often blended with other fibers to add strength

Week 6 Yarns  A group of fibers twisted or laid together to form a long continuous strand  Spun yarn Production spun yarn Made of staple fibers  Cleaning fiber (if natural)  Carding (required) o untangle and loosely aligns fibers o sliver untwisted loosely parallel group of fibers  Combing o Removes shorter fibers and improve alignment  Drawing o Stretches sliver, adds slight twist. Forms a compact, finer roving  Spinning o Will twist slivers or roving together to form long, staple yarn o Open end spun yarns  Uses silver only  Faster and cheaper  Lower quality yarns

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o Ring spun yarn  Finer, stronger yarn  Uses very thin roving  Higher quality and price Carded vs. combed o Carded  Shorter staple fibers  Fuzzier more protruding ends  Bulkier warmer  Softer  Lower strength  Less expensive  In wool yarns, woolen o Combed  Longer staple fibers  Smoother, less protruding ends  Finer  Stronger  More expensive  In wool yarns, worsted Production Filament yarn o o o o o

In apparel more filament yarns the number of filaments extruded form spinneret are combined into yarn extrusion and drawing texturizing laid and (look at power point to get the rest)

drawing  stretches filament as they are extruded  improves o alignment of molecules o strength o the more it is drawn the stronger it is texturizing  adding crimps or curl to synthetic filament by air or heat  provides bulk that increases warmth  improves elasticity, absorbency, and comfort  mimics natural fibers like wool twist  hard twist o higher strength

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o lower absorbency o better soil repellency o finer and smoother soft twist o lower strength o higher absorbency o softer hand o retains heat better

crepe Yarns  very high twist yarns  creates a pebbly surface in fabric  excellent drape  low luster  common fabrics made with these: crepe, chiffon  used in women’s blouses yarn size  measures the weight of a yarn  finer yarns create finer, lighter fabrics with smoother hand  helps determine: end use, quality and price  measured as yarn count (spun yarns) denier (filament), or tex (either) ply yarns  multiple single yarns twisted together  increases strength  described as ‘2 ply’ or ‘3 ply’ (and so on)  used in true denim, bulkier sweaters or scarves, cord core spun or wrapped yarns  a stretchy core with spun or filament yarn spun and wrapped around it o common for spandex elastomeric blends fiber blends yarn production  two or more types of fibers are combined during yarn processing  most common method of creating blends o can also be done during fabric production  why do we see so many fiber blends? o Improve cost or balance out positive and negative fiber properties

EXAM 1 Review Textile supply chain  Fiber  Yarn  Fabric  Dye and print  Finish Produce raw materials  Fibers, chemicals  Then get turned into yarns, threads, fabrics  Dyes and finishes What kind of companies fit under primary materials  Cotton farmer  Yarn spinner  Knitting factory Serviceability  TEXTILES ability to meet consumers’ needs  Aesthetics  Care  Cost  Comfort  Durability  Safety  Environmental concerns As a result of:  Fiber length and or diameter  Fiber surface texture  Fibers chemical make up  Yarn twist, type, or weight used  Fabric construction  Method Fiber categories  natural  synthetic  manufactured cellulose  cellulose o cotton o flax o hemp

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o ramie protein o wool o hair o silk manufactured o rayon o lyocell o acetate synthetics (oil based) o nylon o polyester o acrylic o spandex

FIBER LENGTH  staple o shorter length  fuzzier o longer length  smoother o most natural fibers are only staple o manufactured fibers can be cut to staple  filament o long continuous length o smooth o naturally shiny (lustrous) o all manufactured fibers start this way o silk is the only natural filament what characteristics typically distinguish higher quality fibers  fiber length (longer, beter)  fiber diameter (finer, better)  what do these properties provide? o Smoother. The yarn could be finer. Drapes better.

CELLULOSE  Cotton, flax, hemp  All hydrophilic  Breathable  Comfortable

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Relatively soft Wrinkles and shrinks No pilling Generally low luster Cotton is more desirable because there is a large supply, cheap, versatile, easy care, and soft

PROTEIN  Across all (wool and silk) o Absorbent o Dyes well o Drapes well  Wool fibers o Warm o Lower strength o Pilling

Pros and cons of a sweater made from cotton or wool  Cotton o Breathable o Cheaper o Softer o Less irritation o Easy care  Wool o More expensive o Harder to care for o Insulated very well o Can irritate skin Manufactured.  Shape and fineness  Length of fiber  Luster  Color  Texture  Flammability

Regenerated cellulose (rayon, lyocell)  Excellent drape

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Soft hand Breathable Absorbent Rayon specifically o Lower strength o Wrinkles and shrinks easily

Synthetics  Poor absorbency o Dry quickly  Produce static  Pill easy  Lightweight  Resist wrinkles and shrinking  Thermoplastic (melt)

9-9-18 Fabric Construction Constructed by weaving or knitting yarns together OR by tangling or bonding fibers together These terms are all distinct and can each determine end properties and use  Fiber content  Yarn type  Fabric construction  Fabric name Fabric names relate to:  Fiber content  Yarn type (filament, spun, novelty)  Yarn twist (high, low, crepe)  Fabric weight  Thread count  Fabric construction method  Coloration technique pattern

Weight  Heavier the weight o Stiffer o Better durability

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o More fiber Lighter the weight o Better drape o Softer o Less fiber Extremely light weight or sheer- sheer or gauzy fabrics Light or top weight- blouses, shirting, light dresses Medium weight- heavier shirting, or lighter bottoms Bottom weight- slacks, suiting, lighter jacket Heavy weight- work clothes, heavier clothes, traditional denim

Weaving Two sets of yarn interlacing at right angles to one another Most common and varied from of construction Warp- yarns running parallel to selvage (lengthwise grain)  Stronger  No stretch Weft or Filling- yarns running perpendicular to selvage (crosswise grain)  Finished edge  Very little stretch Woven fabrics do not have significant stretch on grain Stretch is not the same as elasticity Woven fabrics have most stretch in bias direction (diagonal) Thread count  Higher thread count o Smoother hand o Better drape o Better dimensional stability  Lower thread count o Less durable o Poor drape

Balanced weave= similar number yarns in each direction Unbalanced weave= more yarns in either wept or warp direction

BASIC WEAVES Plain- warp and weft yarns go over and under each other at 1:1 ratio  Face and back of fabric are the same  Most common type of woven fabric  Varied end uses across all categories  Balanced o Roughly equal yarn in both warp and weft direction o Good abrasion and snag resistance o Lower resiliency o Typically, poor drape o Poor luster o Uses  Wide variety of uses  Casual or “cotton like” fabrics: gingham, chambray, flannelette  Formal or “silk like” fabrics: china silk, organza, chiffon, georgette, some lining fabrics Basket weave  2:2 or 3:3 yarn ratio  fewer interlacing per inch  can improve resiliency and drape  ex. Oxford cloth, canvas or duck cloth (higher thread count)  unbalanced o yarns/inch is higher in one direction o creates ribbed surface in one direction o properties  poor drape, more structure  less resilient, lower abrasion resistance  better strength  uses: horizontal rib  formal: taffeta, bengaline  shirting: broadcloth, poplin  uses lengthwise rib  pin cord (two color summer suiting)  rip stop (occasional rib)

9-16-18

Twill and satin weaves Twill      

yarns float over 2 or 3 yearns floats are staggered from row to row 2:1 ratio 3:1 ratio (can be 2:2) creates diagonal ridge on fabric most durable weave type

characteristics  face is side with pronounced diagonal ridges o creates more visual interest  diagonal can move up towards right or left  fewer interlacing allow yarns to move freely o better flexibility and resiliency o allow for higher thread counts  durability uses  

often used for sturdy bottom weight apparel or suiting common fabric names o bottom to heavy weight: denim and chino o medium to bottom weight: Gabardine o light to top weight: Surah

broken twill  herringbone  hounds tooth  the direction of the twill is reversed at different intervals to create pattern

SATIN WEAVE Satin weave  yarn floats over 4 yarns before interlacing  commonly 4:1 or 1:4 ratio  smooth surface from floating yarns properties  fewer interlacing means o better resiliency and typically high thread count o can unravel more easily

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o float (yarns on surface) snag easily o if using a filament yarn, very lustrous fabric face and back can have different appearances

dresses, blouses, linings, intimate apparel sateen can be used in more structured or casual silhouettes common fabric names o satin, sateen, charmeuse

satin and charmeuse  filament yarns  typically silk and polyester  lustrous  typically, better drape  formal wear sateen  spun yarns  cotton or cotton blend  less luster  more structured  lightweight blazers, pants, dresses

blend production fabric construction  in a fabric blend, warp yarns are made of a different fiber than weft yarns o ex. Silk warp and flax weft  less common than yarn blending  can be done to o introduce visual interest with novelty or textured yarns in weft direction o lower cost or improve strength

10-23

Complex Weaves Types  dobby

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jacquard pile supplemental yarn double cloth

woven yarns  the pattern or design is created during the weaving process o not like a print which is applied to the surface after weaving is complete  different color yarns are often used to emphasize design DOBBY WEAVES  fabric with small geometric designs woven in with floating yarns o motif placed on plain, twill, or satin background  uses a dobby loom attachment to lift different variations of warp yarn.

JACQUARD WEAVE  fabric with a curvilinear design woven in  created on a jacquard loom which controls each warp yarn individually  yarns introduced to ace only when needed to create pattern  increased production time  may have long floating yarns that snag easily o damask  flat woven curvilinear design  typically, only 1 or 2 colors used  reversible  uses spun or filament yarns  spun typically in interiors or outerwear  filament yarn more often in apparel o Brocade  Richly colored, woven curvilinear design  Always made of filament yarn  Can use metallic yarns  Used in formal dresses, coats, vests, and accessories Pile weave  Extra yarns are woven into a ground of warp and weft yarns and left looped or cut on fabric face  Often bottom to heavy weight  Warmer (retains heat)  Soft hand  Good resilience  Types

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