Makeup Chapter Outline PDF

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CHAPTER OUTLINE MAKE-UP Enhancing Natural Beauty To emphasize the client’s most attractive facial features while minimizing those features that are less attractive. Varies from client to client, based on face shape analysis & client’s individual needs. Consider face structure, eye color, skin & hair, client’s wants, & the results you can realistically achieve.

COSMETICS Foundation Chemistry Liquid Cream Mineral powder FOUNDATION: A tinted cosmetic also known as base makeup; used to cover or even out skin coloring, conceal minor imperfections of the skin, & protects the skin from climate, dirt, & debris. Available in liquid, stick, & cream forms. Newest trend is mineral powder makeup. Chemistry: Most liquid & cream forms are mixtures of water & oil spreading agents as a base containing a significant amount of talc & different color agents’ pigments. • Liquid. Also called water-based foundation, made up of mostly water & emollients such as mineral oil or a silicone such as cyclomethicone. Some may contain alcohol or drying agents. The mixture of water & oil help apply the makeup color agents evenly. • Cream. Known as oil-based & thicker than liquid. They provide heavier coverage. Usually intended for dry skin types. Not recommended for oily or acneic skin. • Mineral powder Foundation Selection & Use Match to skin tone. Blend with disposable makeup sponge. Avoid lines of demarcation. Mineral powder is applied with fluffy brush. FOUNDATION SELECTION: Match as closely as possible to actual skin tone. If too light, it will have a chalky or gray appearance. If too dark, it will look dirty or muddy. Determine correct foundation color by applying a stripe of color to clean skin on the jawline. Blend slightly. Color that disappears on the skin is the correct tone. Concealers Use to cover blemishes & discolorations. Match color to skin. Apply with sponge or disposable cotton swab. Use sparingly & soften edges. CONCEALERS: Used to cover blemishes & discolorations. Available in tins, jars, or tubes with wands. Using concealer. Removed from container with a sanitized spatula & applied with a sponge or disposable cotton swab. Match color to skin as closely as possible. Use sparingly & soften edges

Face Powder Adds matte finish, absorbs oil, & “sets” foundation. Mixture of talc or cornstarch & pigment. Uses binders like zinc stearate. Applied with large powder brush.

FACE POWDER: Fine cosmetic powder used to add a matte or dull finish to the face. Helps absorb excess oil, minimize oily shine, & “set” the foundation. Comes in loose & pressed varieties. Both are a mixture of talc or cornstarch with color pigments added. Chemistry: Loose powder & pressed powder have the same basic composition. Pressed powders are compressed & held together with binders. Loose powders don’t contain much color & are called translucent. Pressing agents or binders like zinc stearate are added to press the foundation & help its adherence to the skin. Applying face powder. Applied with large powder brush. Remove some & place in a disposable cup or tissue. Dip brush in powder & fluff it across the face. Cover all areas of face; remove any excess powder. Avoid a caked, streaked, or blotchy application.

Cheek Color Called blush or rouge. Comes in powder, gel, or cream. Used to add natural glow & color. CHEEK COLOR: Also called blush or rouge; comes in powder, gel, & cream. Cream is used after foundation & before powder. Powder is used after foundation & cream have been applied. Application should look soft & natural. Too little is better than too much. Never apply in a circle on the cheek, beyond the corner of the eye, or inward between the cheekbone & nose.

Lip Color Lipstick or gloss Lip liner Formulas of oils, waxes, & dyes. Lip liner Used to outline lips; keeps lip color from feathering; coordinate with lip color LIP COLOR: Also called lipstick or gloss. A cosmetic in paste form, available in a variety of colors. Used to enhance or correct the shape of the lips. Some contain sunscreen, others contain moisturizers. Chemistry: Available in variety of forms: creams, glosses, pencils, gels & sticks. All are formulas of oils, waxes, & dyes. Using lip color. Consider the client’s preferences, eye color, skin tone & lip shape. Do not apply directly from container, unless it belongs to the client. Use a spatula to remove the lip color from the container & take it from the spatula with a disposable lip brush. LIP LINER: Used to outline the lips. Also helps keep lip color from feathering. Coordinate lip liner with chosen lip color. Sharpen the lipliner & sanitize the sharpener before every use.

Eye Shadows Make eyes brighter & more expressive. Forms Colors Highlight color Base color Contour color

EYE SHADOW: Applied on the eyelids to accentuate or contour them. Available in almost every color & in a variety of finishes, including metallic, matte, frost, shimmer, or dewy. Using eye shadow. Makes the eyes appear brighter & more expressive. Darker shade of eye color makes the natural color of the iris appear lighter, while a lighter shade makes the iris appear deeper. Makeup colors should enhance the client’s eyes. Forms. Stick, cream, pressed, & dry powder form. Colors Highlight color. Lighter than the client’s skin tone & may have any finish. Highlight a specific area such as the brow bone. Lighter color will make an area appear larger. Base color. A medium tone that is close to the client’s skin tone. Used to even skin tone on the eye. Applied all over the lid & brow bone before other colors are applied. Contour color. Deeper & darker than the client’s skin tone. Applied to minimize a specific area, to create contour in a crease, or define the eyelash line. Eyeliners Used to outline & emphasize the eye. Consist of wax or hardened oil base with color additives. Apply with short strokes & gentle pressure. EYELINER: Used to outline & emphasize the eye. Available in pencil, liquid, pressed (cake), or felt-tip pen. Make the eyes appear larger & lashes fuller. Chemistry.

Consists of a wax (paraffin) or hardened oil base (petrolatum) with a variety of additives to create color. CAUTION: According to the American Medical Association, eye pencils should not be used to color the inner rim of the eyes, because this can lead to infection of the tear duct, causing tearing, blurring of vision, & permanent pigmentation of the mucous membrane lining the inside of the eye. Using eyeliner. Be cautious when applying. Have a steady hand. Sharpen the eyeliner, wipe with clean tissue, & sanitize the sharpener before each use. Apply with short strokes & gentle pressure close to lash line. Brush may be wet to use with powder liner.

Eyebrow Color Used to add color & contour brows. similar to eyeliner pencils. Avoid harsh contrasts with hair color. EYEBROW COLOR: Eyebrow pencils or shadows used to add color & shape to the eyebrows. Can darken the eyebrows, fill in sparse areas, or correct misshapen brows. Chemistry. Chemistry is similar to that of eyeliner pencils & ingredients are similar to those in eye shadows. Using eyebrow color. Sharpen the pencil, wipe clean with tissue, & sanitize the sharpener before each use. Avoid harsh contrasts between hair & eyebrow color.

Mascara Used to darken & thicken lashes. Chemistry Pigments MASCARA. Used to darken, define, & thicken the eyelashes. Available in liquid, cake, & cream form. Enhances the natural lashes, making them appear thicker & longer. Lashes should be darker than the eyebrows. Chemistry. Polymer products that include water, wax, thickeners, film-formers, & preservatives in their formulation. Pigments. Pigments are carbon black, carmine, ultramarine, chromium oxide, & iron oxides. Some contain rayon or nylon fibers to lengthen & thicken the hair fibers. Application. May be used on all lashes from the inner to outer corners. Dispose of the wand. NEVER double-dip. Other Cosmetics Eye makeup removers Grease paint Cake (pancake) makeup Eye makeup removers. Oil-based or water-based. Used to remove makeup. Grease paint. Heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes. Cake or pancake makeup. A shaped, solid mass applied to the face with a moistened cosmetic sponge. Gives good coverage & used to cover scars & pigmentation defects. Makeup Brushes Powder Brush Blush Brush Concealer Brush Lip brush Eye shadow brushes Eyeliner brush Makeup Brushes–Cont’d Angle brush Lash & brow brush Makeup Tools Tweezers Eyelash Curler Sponges Powder or cotton puffs Mascara wands Spatulas Disposable lip brushes Sponge-tipped shadow applicators Cotton pads or puffs Pencil sharpener

Color Theory Primary Colors Secondary Colors Tertiary colors PRIMARY COLOR: Cannot be obtained from a mixture. Yellow, red & blue. SECONDARY COLOR: Obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors. Orange, violet, green. TERTIARY COLOR: Formed by mixing equal amounts of a secondary color & its neighboring primary color COMPLEMENTARY COLORS: Primary & secondary colors directly opposite each other on the color wheel. When mixed, they cancel each other out to create a neutral brown or gray color.

Warm & Cool Colors Warm Cool WARM & COOL COLORS Warm. Range from yellow & gold through oranges, red-oranges, most reds, & even some yellow-greens. Cool. Dominated by blues, greens, violets, & blue-reds.

Determining Skin Color---- Selecting Makeup Colors Light skin color Medium skin color Dark skin color SELECTING MAKEUP COLOR: Consider skin color, eye color, & hair color. Skin color. Decide if the skin is light, medium, or dark in level. Light skin color. Use light colors for a soft, natural look. Medium to dark colors will create a more dramatic look. Medium skin color. Medium tones will create an understated look. Light or dark tones will provide more contrast & appear bolder. Dark skin color. Dark tones will be most subtle. Medium to light tones will be striking & vivid.

Color Selection Steps Determine skin level. Determine skin undertone. Determine eye color. Determine complementary colors. Determine hair color. Choose eye makeup colors. Coordinate cheek & lip colors. Apply makeup. COLOR SELECTION Steps Determine skin level: light, medium, or dark. Determine skin undertone: warm, cool, or neutral. Determine eye color: blue, green, brown, etc. Determine complementary colors. Determine hair color: warm or cool. Choose eye makeup colors based on complementary or contrasting colors. Coordinate cheek & lip colors within same color family: warm, cool, or neutral. Apply makeup. Complementary Colors for Eyes Neutrals: safest Blue eyes Gold, peach, copper, mauve, plum, taupe, camel COLOR FOR EYES: Neutrals are always safest choice. Contrasting eye color with complementary colors will emphasize the color most effectively. COMPLEMENTARY COLORS: Blue eyes: orange. Choices include gold, warm orange-browns like peach & copper; red-browns like mauve & plum; & neutrals like taupe or camel. Green eyes: red. Choices include brown-based reds, red-orange, red-violet, & violet; coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve, & purples. Brown eyes: neutral & can wear any color. Contrasting colors such as greens, blues, grays, & slivers. Complementary Colors for Eyes–Cont’d Green eyes Brown-based reds, red-orange, red-violet, violet, coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve, & purples Complementary Colors for Eyes–Cont’d Brown eyes Can wear any color: greens, blues, grays, silvers Complementary Colors for Eyes–Cont’d Cheek & lip color Coordinate in same color family as eye makeup Hair color & eye color Hair color impacts the complementary colors choose CHEEK & LIP COLOR: Coordinate in the same color family as the eye makeup. HAIR COLOR & EYE COLOR: Hair color needs to be taken into account when determining eye makeup color.

Complementary Colors for Eyes–Cont’d Client Consultation area Lighting Gather information Sell retail CLIENT CONSULTATION: Your role is to listen & then make recommendations. Consultation area. Should be clean & tidy. Keep a portfolio that includes photographs of your work or pictures from magazines. Lighting. Essential for both the consultation & application of the makeup process. Face should be evenly lit without dark shadows. Natural light is best. If necessary, to use artificial light, should be a combination of incandescent light & fluorescent light. Gather information. Skin condition, how much or how little makeup she wears, daily vs. special occasion makeup, amount of time spent applying makeup, color likes & dislikes, & any trouble areas. Record on client consultation card. Sell retail. Reviewing & restating your written advice with the client at the end of the service will help sell retail products. Makeup Application Supplies Cleansers, astringent, toner, moisturizer Based, concealers, face powders, cheek colors, lip colors, lip liners, eye shadows, eyeliner pencils, mascara Makeup Application Supplies–Cont’d Towels, draping sheets, makeup cape, headband or hair clips, eyelash curler, assorted makeup brushes, small makeup palette Disposable applicators, sponges, tissues, sharpener, cotton, spatulas Makeup Application Preparation Perform client consultation. Wash hands. Drape client. Apply cleanser. PREPARATION Perform client consultation. Determine the client’s needs & choose products & colors accordingly. Wash your hands. Drape the client. Use a

headband or hair clip to keep the client’s hair out of her face. Apply cleansing cream or lotion. Remove a small quantity of cleanser from the container with a spatula & place it in the palm of the left hand or apply a dab of lotion to an applicator. With the fingertips of the right hand, place dabs of cleanser on the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin, & neck. Spread the cleanser over the face & neck with light upward & outward circular movements. Makeup Application Preparation–Cont’d Remove cleanser. Apply astringent lotion or toner. Apply moisturizer. Groom eyebrows. Remove cleanser. Use a tissue, mitts, or moistened cotton pads to remove the cleanser, using an upward & outward motion. Be especially gentle around the eyes. If makeup or color is particularly heavy on the eyes & lips, apply the cleanser a second time, as needed. Apply astringent lotion or toner. For oily skin, apply astringent lotion; for dry skin, apply a skin toner. Moisten a cotton pad with the lotion & pat it lightly over the entire face & under the chin & neck. Blot off excess moisture with tissues or a cotton pad. Apply moisturizer. When necessary, as in the case of dry & delicate skin, apply a moisturizing lotion. Dab a small amount of the moisturizer on the forehead, cheeks, & chin. Blend upward over the face. Remove excess with a tissue, cotton pad, or facial sponge. Groom eyebrows. Eyebrow arching (tweezing) is a complete service in itself. You may, however, choose to remove a few stray hairs before a facial makeup by tweezing the hair in the same direction in which it grows.

Makeup Application Procedure Apply foundation. Test the color by blending the foundation on the client’s jawline. When you are satisfied with your choice, place a small amount of the foundation in the palm or back of your hand &, using the tips of your fingers, apply sparingly & evenly over the entire face & around the neckline. Starting at the center of the face, blend with outward & downward motions. Blend near the hairline & remove excess foundation with a cosmetic sponge or pledged. Makeup Application Procedure–Cont’d Apply concealer. Select the appropriate type & color of concealer & then scrape a small amount onto a spatula. Using a brush or fingertips, apply the concealer lightly where needed (under the eyes, over blemishes, to cover redness). Blend in with a patting motion. If a powder foundation is being used, the concealer must be applied before the foundation. (NOTE: Your instructor may prefer a different method that may be equally correct.) Makeup Application Procedure–Cont’d Apply the powder with a sanitary puff or cosmetic sponge, pressing it over the face & shaking off the excess with a puff or powder brush. A moistened cosmetic sponge may be pressed over the finished makeup to give the face a matte look. Makeup Application Procedure–Cont’d Apply eyeliner. Apply eyebrow color. Apply eye color. Select a complementary color in a medium tone & then, beginning at the lash line or crease, apply lightly & blend outward with a brush or disposable applicator. Apply eyeliner. Select cake or liquid liner in a color to harmonize with the mascara you will be applying. Pull the eyelid taut as the client looks down, & draw a very fine line along the entire lid. You may apply to the top lash line &/or bottom lash line. If eyeliner pencil is used, the point should be fine & care should be taken to avoid injury or discomfort. Be sure to trim the pencil before each use. Apply eyebrow color. Brush the brows in place. With light feathery strokes, apply color with a fine pointed pencil or fill in with a brush & shadow. Excess color can be removed with a cotton-tipped swab. Makeup Application Procedure–Cont’d Apply mascara. Apply to the top & underside of the upper lashes with careful, gentle strokes until the desired effect is achieved. Use a fresh brush or applicator to separate the lashes. Mascara may be applied to lower lashes if desired, but the effect should be subtle. Makeup Application Procedure–Cont’d Apply cheek color. (Cheek color is sometimes applied after the foundation & before powdering.) Have the client smile, to raise the cheeks, & then apply liquid or cream cheek color with a sanitized applicator, blending outward & upward toward the temples. Powder cheek color is brushed on following the application of powder. Use the same procedure as with a cream or liquid. Makeup Application Procedure–Cont’d Apply lip color. Use a freshly sharpened pencil to line the lips, beginning at the outer corner of the upper lip & working toward the middle. Repeat on the opposite side. Connect the center peaks using rounded strokes, following the natural line of the lip. Outline the lower lip from the outer corners in, & then apply liner on the lips, staying within the outline. For sanitary reasons, lip color must not be applied directly from the container unless it belongs to the client. Use a spatula to remove the lip color from the container, then take it from the spatula with a lip brush. Rest your ring finger on the client’s chin to steady your hand. Ask the client to relax her lips & part them

slightly. Brush on the lip color. Then ask the client to smile slightly so that you can smooth the lip color into any small crevices. Blot the lips with tissue to remove excess product & set the lip color. Powdering is not recommended, because a moist look is more desirable for lips.

Cleanup & Sanitation Discard disposable items. Disinfect implements. Clean & sanitize brushes. Place towels & linens. Sanitize work station. Wash hands. CLEANUP & SANITATION Discard all disposable items, such as sponges, pads, spatulas, & applicators, after each use. Disinfect implements such as eyelash curlers. Clean & sanitize brushes using a commercial brush sanitizer. Place towels, linens, makeup cape, & other washable items in a hamper. Sanitize your workstation. Wash your hands with soap & warm water. Striking Contour Eyes Base color from lashes to brow. Medium tone on lid. Medium to deep tone in crease & blend. Highlight shadow under brow bone. Eyeliner from outside corner tapering in. Shadow over eyeliner. Apply mascara. SPECIAL OCCASION MAKEUP FOR EYES OPTION 1: Striking Contour Eyes Apply the base color from the lashes to the brow with a shadow brush or applicator. Apply medium tone on the lid, blending from lash line to crease with the shadow brush or applicator. Apply medium to deep color in the crease, blending up toward the eyebrow, but ending below it. Apply highlight shadow under the brow bone with the shadow brush or applicator. Apply eyeliner on the upper lash line from the outside corner in, tapering as you reach the inner corner. Blend with the small brush or applicator. Apply shadow in the same color as the liner, directly over the liner. This will give longevity & intensity to the liner. Repeat on the bottom lash line, if desired. Apply mascara with a dis...