TAM 2200 Notes Ch. 15 & Ch. 16 PDF

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Kerri McBee-Black...

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Ch. 15: Other Fabrication Methods Intro ● ● ● ●

Many ways to produce fabrics Used in textile products or as substitutes for textiles Made of same chemicals as textiles Made of textile components like fibers, yarns and fabrics Fabric from Solution ● Films are made directly from polymer solution by melt-extrusion or by casting solution onto hot drum ● Most apparel and interior textile films are made from vinyl solutions ● Vinyl films are washable but become stiff and brittle when dry-cleaned or in cold temps ● Urethane films are both washable and dry-cleanable and remain soft in cold temps ● Waterproof, impermeable, stiff, low cost and resistant to soil ● Poor drapability and are weak unless have a back support ● Can be embossed to resemble leather and are used in shoes and handbags ● Plain films are firm, dense and uniform ● Usually impermeable to air and water and have high soil resistance ● Latex and vinyl are plain films used in disposable gloves for health-care workers ● Expanded films are spongier, softer and plumper due to blowing-agent incorporates tiny air cells into compound ● Not as strong or abrasion resistant as plain films; impermeable to air and water ● Not durable enough to withstand regular use so a backing is added called a substrate ● Supported films are composite fabrics are more durable, more expensive, easier to sew and less likely to crack and split than non reinforced films ● Foams are made by incorporating air into an elastic like substance ● Polyurethane is most common ● Known for their bulkiness and sponginess ● Used as carpet backings, furniture padding and pillow forms

Fabrics from Fibers ● Made directly from fibers or fiber-forming solutions; no processing of fibers

into a yarn ● Tapa cloth, 1st fiberweb, made from fibrous inner bark of fig or paper mulberry tree; used for clothing by people in Central America Fabrics from Fibers- Nonwoven (fiber webs) ● Textile sheet structures made from fibrous webs bonded through use of resins, thermal fusion or mechanical means ● Various properties controlled by fiber content, fiber arrangement and bonding mechanism ● Nonwoven Methods ○ Dry-Laid: fibers arranged in random or oriented arrangements; wipes, wicks, quilt backing, laminating/coating base fabrics (#165) ○ Wet-Laid: fibers arranged from slurry of fibers and water, laminating/coating bases, wipes, roofing substrate (#166) ○ Hydroentangled (spunlaced): similar to spun-bonded, but water jets create pattern; apparel and furnishings (#166) ○ Melt-blown: extruded, broken into short fibers by high speed air, collected on conveyer belt, and bonded; hospital-medical uses; battery separators ● Fabric Production ○ Needling or needle punched: barbed needles mechanically interlock fibers (#167) ○ Chemical Adhesive: glues fiber together ○ Heat: melts fibers together at overlap ● Fiberfill ○ Batting, wadding and fiberfill are not fabrics ○ Resilient, lightweight, resists shifting ○ Polyester, down and others ● Fusible Nonwovens ○ Contribute to body and shape to garments as interfacing or interlinings in shirts, dresses, etc. ○ Fibers interlocked, no grain, doesn’t fray or ravel ○ Stiff, weak, craft and industrial uses (#163) Fabrics from Yarns ● Braids: ○ narrow fabrics with yarns interlaced lengthwise or diagonally ○ Flat or 3-D ○ Good elongation, pliable, curve around edges, apparel trim, furnishings and industrial goods ● Lace:

○ Openwork fabric with complex patterns or figures, handmade or machine made Composite Fabrics ● Coated fabrics combines textile fabric with polymer film ● Lamination is most common method of adding substrate; prepared film is adhered to fabric with adhesive or heated to slightly melt the back of the film (#168 & 170) ● Calendaring: polymer is mixed with solutions and applied to preheated fabric ● Coating: fluid hot film applied by knife or roll ● Poromeric Fabrics: ○ Incorporate films but classified differently because film is very think and microporous ○ Water vapor permeable ○ Waterproof, windproof and breathable ● 2 methods used for applying flock are mechanical or electrostatic ● Tufted Fabrics: ○ Yarn stitched onto fabric to create pile-like look; usually back coated to lock yarns in place ● Stitch-Bonded Fabrics: ○ Warp knitting machines use needles to interlace fibers or yarns lock inlaid yarns in place ● Quilted Fabrics: ○ 2 layers of fabric with fiberweb combined; bulky warm, decorative (#171 & 172) ● Supported Scrim Structures: ○ Combine lightweight nylon scrim and a loose-wrap knit fabric b/t 2 thin layers of foam ○ Cheap, easy to care, durable (#173) ● Fiber-reinforced material: ○ Fibers added to resins, metals, or ceramics to improve performance

Animal Products ● Leather: ○ Tanned skin/hid of mammal, reptile, fish, bird ○ Skin varies in quality, thickness and grain ○ Classification based on animal source ○ Tanning: chemical finish to make skin pliable, water and rot

resistant ○ Other processes: bleach, dye, emboss, print, glaze, board, etc. ○ Suede: napped leather ○ Care: leather cleaning method (#N53)

Ch. 16: Finishes Intro ● Finishing: can be done by mill where fabric is produced or by specialized company called Converter ○ Finish: any process that is done to fiber, yarn, or fabric either before or after fabrication to change the appearance, hand or performance ○ All finishing processes add to cot of end product and time to produce ○ Finishes can be classified by how long they are effective ○ Permanent: lasts life of product ○ Durable: may last for life of product but can diminish with use or age ○ Temporary: lasts until item is washed or dry-cleaned ○ Renewable: can be applied by consumers or reapplied by dry cleaners ● Dyeing, printing, embossing and other finishes are easy to recognize because they are visible ● Other finishes, wrinkle resistance, mercerization, water repellency, are not visible but impact fabric performance ● Adding finishes to wovens and knits must be handled differently; wovens have very little stretch while knits have lot of stretch; precautions must be in place to minimize stretching during finishing ● Gray, grey or greige goods are fabrics after fabrication, but before finishing (#1) ● Converted, or finished goods have received wet-or-dry finishing such as bleaching or dyeing ● Mill-finished fabrics are sold and used without further finishing ● Finishing textiles uses a lot of water; it must be clean and neutral without inorganic or organic contaminants that may interfere with finishing ● Water-bath finishing was standard for years when water was of good quality and readily available ● Finishing chemical is placed in water solution and padded onto fabric by immersing the fabric in solution and squeezing out excess ● Potential for water pollution is high unless treated before discharge into public water systems ● Foam finishing is alternative means, using foam rather than liquid ● Pickup is amount of liquid or chemical a fabric absorbs during finishing; lower wet

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pickup means the fabric weighs less Solvent finishing decreased water pollution and energy costs Solvent is used to mix solution; not as popular as foam finishing due to solvent cost, expensive reclaiming processes, environmental concerns, regulatory issues and health problems Many changes taking place to finish textiles with less impact; like waterless finishing in denim Laser finishing Routine Steps in Producing a Fabric ● Fiber Processing ○ Cotton fibers are processed separately from polyester fibers due to differences in properties of 2 ○ When in filament form, synthetics require little additional processing; when used in blend, staple polyester fibers will need to be created ○ Cotton needs much more processing; after picking, ginning and baling it is shipped to yarn processing facility ● Yarn Processing ○ Fibers are aligned, blended and twisted ○ Both cotton and polyester fiber bales are opened and cleaned ○ Compact fibers are loosened and aligned in parallel fashion before yarn can be produced ○ Several different bales of cotton will be blended to ensure fabric performance and quality will be consistent ○ Cotton and polyester processing is separate until you get well into yarn-production process; for blends, fibers are combined at drawing or roving stage ● Yarn Preparation ○ Sizing: warp yarns are treated before being threaded into loom for weaving; wound onto creel and then coated with mixture of natural starches, synthetic resins and other ingredients so they will resist abrasion and tension of weaving ● Fabrication ○ Usually follows sizing; fabric is woven, knitted or created in another manner ● Fabric Preparation ○ Fabric must be prepared for dyeing and finishing; these steps include desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerization and heat setting ○ Handling refers to physical form of fabric during finishing; width,

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length and fabrication Minimums are smallest quantity of fabric a buyer can purchase from a mill Run describes quantity of fabric being finished; as length of run increases, cost per yard decreases Singeing burns any fiber ends projecting from surface of fabric Used to give smooth surface to fabrics that will be printed Desizing: sizing added to warp yarns is removed by physical agitation or chemical enzyme ■ Necessary so that dyes and finishes will bond to both warp and filling yarns Cleaning: dirt, oil or other soil is removed so that greige goods can accept any finish Scouring: removal or foreign matter or soil from fabric prior to finishing or dyeing Bleaching: process of whitening fibers, yarns or fabrics by removing irregular color (#2) Optical brighteners: fluorescent compounds to mask yellow (#2) Mercerization: process of treating a cellulosic fabric or yarn with an alkali (caustic soda) ■ Used on large lengths of cotton, linen and some rayon or lyocell to increase softness, strength and affinity for dyes and waterborne finishes Coloration ■ Color is normally added to fabric at this stage Finishing ■ Special-purpose finishes include wrinkle resistant, soil release or fabric softening ■ Swatch #2 & 185 Drying ■ Frequent wetting of textiles in finishing so drying is also frequent ■ Loop drying: w/o tension for soft finish ■ Heat setting: heated under tension for thermoplastic fibers ■ Calendering: gives a smooth, pressed finish to fabric ■ Tentering: applies crosswise and lengthwise tension to fabric while it dries ● Tenter frames are used and you can tell when a fabric has been tentered by looking at selvage edge ● Very important to fabric quality as it keeps fabric ongrain

● If it is tentered off-grain the fabric will be printed offgrain and then you have skew and bow ○ Reworking ■ Includes inspecting fabric for defects or flaws, and repairing problem ■ Fabric Inspecting: done by moving fabrics over inverted frame in good light ■ Inspectors mark flaws in fabric and records quality ■ Repairing: flaws are repaired when possible; broken yarns clipped, snagged yarns reworked into fabric, and defects are marked so adjustments can be made in cutting...