TAM 2200 Notes Ch. 17 & 18 PDF

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Kerri McBee-Black...

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Ch. 17: Aesthetic Finishes Intro ● Change appearance or hand of fabrics ● Finished fabric name may reflect change in appearance or technique ● Applied design: applied to fabric w/ purpose of altering some visual, textural, hand or other aesthetic dimension of fabric ● Many different possibilities from greige goods ● Finishes can be accomplished through additive and subtractive methods ● Grouped by change to fabric: ○ Luster, drape, texture and hand Luster ● Glazed chintz and polished cotton are 2 fabrics that have been surface glazed (#3) ● Cire finish is similar to glazed, except metal roll is hot to produce greater luster (#6) ● Plasticize finish has very thin layer of polymer added to dyed fabric ● Moire fabrics have wood grain or watermarked appearance and are used for formalwear (#69) ● Schreiner finish fabrics have softer luster than other luster finishes ○ Used on cotton sateen for apparel, upholstery and other interior textiles (#91) ● Embossed fabrics are created using an embossing calendar that produces either flat or raised designs on fabric Drape ● Change way a fabric falls or hangs over 3-D shape ● Transparent and crisp ○ Parchmentize: treat cellulose w/ acid (#50) ○ Burned-out: printing chemical solvent on blend fabric made of different generic fiber (rayon and polyester); one fiber is dissolved (#198) Texture and Hand ● Finishes that modify fabric texture add components that alter original texture or alter feel of fabric ● Embossed: produces raised designs ● Pleated: variation of embossing ● Puckered Surface: chemical printed on nylon or polyester shrinks fabric

● Plisse: converted from lawn or print-cloth by printing an alkali, caustic soda, onto apparel fabric in form of stripes or designs ○ Alkali shrinks fabric in those treated areas and untreated area puckers ● Flocked: add surface fiber with adhesive for localized pile effect ● Embroidered: decorated by hand or w/ machine ○ Can create Eyelet which is embroidery fabric w/ small round holes cut in fabric, w/ stitching around holes ● Brushed or Napped: Nap is layer of fiber ends raised from ground weave of fabric by mechanical brushing action ○ Flannel, flannelette or fleece are all napped fabrics created through finishing (#30, 80 and 149) ● Beetled: mechanical flattening of yarns to make weave appear tighter. Used on linen and fabric resembling linen (#7) ● Emerizing, sueding or sanding: fabric is abraded to create soft hand; referred to as peach skin (#28) ● Abrasive, chemical or enzyme washes: ○ Chemical wash: chemical alters fiber surface (#204) ○ Abrasive wash: chemically structured abrasive material tumbled w/ fabric (pumice stone) ○ Enzyme wash: cellulase enzyme removed surface fuzz; decreases piling and fabric weight

Ch. 18: Special-Purpose Finishes Intro ● ● ● ● ● ●

Applied to fabrics to enhance performance for specific end uses Don’t usually alter appearance, but do address consumer problems Add to product cost and value Are invisible Many functional finishes are topical Nanotechnology is method; added during dyeing or finishing, spray coating or electrostatic methods

Stabilization: Shrinkage Control ● Relaxation shrinkage occurs during washing, steam pressing or dry cleaning ○ Cotton, flax, lyocell and HVM rayon

● Progressive shrinkage continues at smaller rates for several additional care cycles ○ Wool has high progressive shrinkage ● Processes to remove relaxation shrinkage ○ Knit: minimize by overfeeding b/t rollers during finishing; heat set blends ○ Woven: mechanical processes; fabric shrinks during processing Shape-Retention Finishes ● Wrinkle recovery: wrinkles occur when fabrics are crushed during use or care; recovery depends on cross links which old adjacent molecular chains together and pull them back into position after fiber is bent ● Durable Press: items that retain their shape and pressed appearance after many uses, washings and tumble dryings ● Durable Press silk: creates more stiff and weak fabric w/ loss in whiteness when finished Appearance-Retention Finishes ● Soil and stain resistant finishes, abrasion resistant finishes, Anti Slip, slipresistant or non slip finishes, fume-fading resistance, surface or back coating, light-stabilization finishes and pilling resistant finishes Comfort-Related Finishes ● Water repellent, air permeable finishes, water absorbent finishes, UV blocker finishes, antistatic finishes and fabric softeners Biological Control Finishes ● Insect and moth control, mold and mildew control, rot proof, antimicrobial, antiseptic or antibacterial and microencapsulated Safety-Related Finishes ● Flame retardant, flame resistance, liquid barrier protective finishes and light reflective finishes...