The victorian and Edwardian era PDF

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It has all the notes from class 1 which includes Victorian and Edwardian Fashion 1850-1909. Learning this will be very helpful in the mid-term exam....

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Victorian and Edwardian Fashion 1850-1909

September 4, 2019

Victorian Era (1837-1901) Victorian era fashion: usually depicts a woman in long ruffled dress made of silk and organdy. Parasols were also used for accessorizing. ○ Lots of fabrics are used to layer - lawn, taffeta, silk and wool / Opulent and luxurious fabric are used ■ Laced or trimmed design were popular at the time ■ Fringes, braid and lace were the element

Queen Victoria (63 yrs reigned) a fashion icon and an inspiration for the fashion press at that time. ● 1830’s - 1840’s: dresses were characterized by its drooping shoulders, long pointed angles and low pinched in waist. These low-waisted dresses required long, heavily boned corsets to give them their shape. ● •She was not a frivolous royal leader and her belief in simplicity and demure elegance is echoed by the fashion plates of the day. ● The fashion can be described as very conservative, modest, strict, and abides by the rules / more covered skin ○ Proper clothing required covering the entire body apart from hands and head, although it was often covered by gloves and hat. Prudish: the common perception of the Victorian’s are “purdish, hypocritical, and stuffy” Propriety: clothing is required covering the entire body apart from the hands, and head, although these too were often covered with gloves and hats. ● Clothing styles were dictated by propriety and stylish garments were a sign of respectability he Victorian Woman: Victorian women were not liberated. They are groomed almost their whole life to look attractive, to be married off and be a wife - this was the biggest role of women in this era. ● The career for women was marriage; to get ready for courtship and marriage

“A woman must have a thorough knowledge of music, singing, drawing, dancing, and the modern languages….; and besides all this, she must possess a certain something in her air and manner of walking, the tone of her voice, her address and expressions…” - Pride and Prejudice -1800 was the decade of severely tight and restrictive corsets that were worn under dresses with long boned bodices, tight sleeves and high necks. ○ Dresses could weigh 15-20 pounds

Victorian Undergarments ● Women had to wear a total of 8 pieces undergarment to complete their attire: ● The (C3PTUBD ) ● Chemise, corset, camisole, petticoat, top layer, underskirt, bustle / polison, drawers. ● Also bust improvers and crinoline. ● Victorian women underclothing can be separated into underlines and structural garments. ● Underlines: Drawers, chemise, petticoat, corset covers and combinations protected the valuable corset, dress and outer clothing from the body and could also provide warmth. ● Structural Underwear: corsets, crinolines, bustles and bust-improvers, created the fashionable silhouette.

Layers of clothing 1. Drawers: Early victorian drawers tend to come down below the knee with straight cut legs with or without bands on at the bottom. ● Each leg was finished separately and joined together at the waistband only, leaving the crotch seam open. Bagginess at the seat prevented the

open seam from gaping. The seam closed later in the century. ● During the 1860s and '70s drawers shortened to just below knee level and sometimes gathered into kneebands and often had a hip yoke to reduce fullness at the waist. The version with kneebands became known as knickerbockers (abbreviated to knickers). ● By the end of the century some drawers were wide-legged and flared. This was to become the fashionable style of the Edwardian era.

2.Chemise: calf length gown, with sleeves or without sleeves (plain/puffed). ● Worn over the drawers, both protected the skin from the corset, and vice versa. ● The early Victorian chemise or shift was voluminous and made from quite firm, white linen, usually undecorated. ● Later coloured and pattern textiles were used including knits, silks and nainsook (woven bleached/striped cotton from India).

3.Combinations of Drawers and Chemise: aka “union suits” became available in 1870 to prevent bulk. - a chemise and drawers were united in one smoothly-fitting garment. 4. Corsets: tightly fitting undergarment from chest to the hips, worn to shape the figure. This garment defines most Victorian and Edwardian clothing as it was necessary to shape the woman’s figure to the current fashion trend.

5.Petticoat: one of more petticoats are added to provide more fullness under the skirt to get the desired volume.

6.Cage Crinoline: When the weight of numerous petticoats became intolerable, ‘cage crinoline’ or hooped petticoat replaced them in the 1850-60s and where made of whalebone, cane, or steel wire.

● When the weight of numerous petticoats became intolerable, ‘cage crinoline’ or hooped petticoat replaced them in the 1850-60s ● It was an instrument of seduction. The swinging of the skirt resulted in a new fashion of boots. 7.Bustles: aka crinollinette - flat front petticoat with hoops of widening size top to bottom , As early as 1865 to the end of the decade, the skirt supports began to slip to the back of the skirt, leaving the front straight.

8.Camisole: Also known as a corset cover, which protected the outer garments from the corset as well as hid the corset under sheer garments. -We tend to call the white cotton garments corset covers, while the later little strappy silk garments we call camisoles.

9. Under skirt: flat front, with fullness in the back.

10.Bust improvers: circular pads to push up the breast outward resulting in a larger appearance of the bust. ● Example: the "Lemon Cup" bust improver from around 1890.

Accessories Hats: both genders usually wear hats outdoors. 1870-80’s hats were high, vertical and excessively decorated. ● Trimmed with ornaments, ostrich feathers, flowers, etc ● Hats were balanced on pads, wigs and human hair Parasol: parasols were often used by women outdoors as a fashionable accessory.

❏ Fashion became democratized with the mass production and distribution of cheap, ready-to-wear clothing. ❏ The distinction between styles of clothing for the affluent and those of ordinary people became less noticeable, except in material / quality. ❏ The bourgeoisie frequently complained that it was becoming impossible to

distinguish ‘the mistresses from the maids’. In the 1890s, the drama shifted from the skirt to the sleeves and shoulders. Dresses/skirts were cut on the cross/bias and more smooth over the hips. Men’s Victorian Attire ● 3 components seen on men’s suit: coat, vest, and trousers ○ The coat and the vest are dull in colour and has a different colour than the trousers ● Men of high society wore: long coat, high heeled shoes, and customary cane ● Men wore hats that are lower than the top hats. Lounge Coat: sack coat was cut to hang straight from the shoulders with no waist seam and hemline below the hips. The 3-4 button single breasted closure was often worn with only the top button fastened. ● Became popular in London, Paris and spread to the rest of Europe and America. ● Regarded as causal attire only for daytime and was even labeled a lounge suit.

Straw boater hat: shallow cylindrical hat worn by both men and women.It must be remembered that a straw hat or low hat cannot be worn with a black coat of any kind…

Top hats: felted beaver skin was the preferred material for top hats for its waterproof properties.The Victorian top hat practically wiped out the beaver in America by 1900.

Derby / Bowler hat: a round crown with a narrow brim. The purpose was to create a headgear for gamekeeps when they are out riding to protect heads from low hanging branches.It was designed by London hatmakers Thomas and William Bowlers for hatters Lock & Co of St James’s.

Pocket watch: made of gold, silver, nickel and oxidized steel. The watch was placed in one pocket and the other end of the chain to another.Mass production made precision timepieces affordable to most men

Tuxedo: the tuxedo (1865) became popular when worn by Prince Edward VII as an alternative to tailcoat. ● The dinner jacket was likely brought to America in 1886 by millionaire James Brown Potter and his wife Cora, who were introduced to the Prince of Wales during a trip to Britain.

Charles Frederick Worth

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introduced marketing techniques to the couture industry. Englishman had made himself a dictator of the mode in Paris . Began designing dresses for his wife as a model. He used live models, introduced seasonal fashion collection which less wealthy clients could oder in their own sizes . ● Known for lavish fabrics and trims of his garments. ● He set the fashion trends for Paris and style for 35 years.

Europe pre 1900: Edwardian Woman ● Edwardian period began and named after the new king, King Edward VII(formerly the Prince of Wales). ● Edwardian society modelled itself to suit the King’s personal demands and larger than life, lots of balls, dinners and country house parties. ● “Rules of dressing” - begin to unravel, the beginning of the end of sexual repression. ● Queen Alexandra was the fashion icon of the new era. The perfect Edwardian Figure was “round breast, hand span waist, accentuated hips and protruding posterior”. THEMES OF THE EDWARDIAN ERA ● Changing Roles of Women. ● Mass production, home appliances, manufactured products, cleaning products eased housework and provided conveniences for the modern woman. ● Financial independence through greater opportunities for employment. ● Mechanical typewriter, women were hired as operators. ● American women lead the movement in the right to vote. ● Women played sports, entered colleges and universities. ● Women had moved to become self confident and independent.

Signature Edwardian Elements: ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

High necks with stiff lace. Wide puffed sleeves with close fitting undersleeves. Bodices fully bonded to the neckline. Ruffles and spangles all over. Low cut necklines and bare backs for evening wear. Material were crepe de chine, chiffon, tulle. The king favoured the mature women, cool and commanding with a rather heavy

bust. Fashion Trends ● Colours were neutral, pastels ● Daytime wear the body was concealed from the ears to the toes S-bend corset: aka healthy corset, became the new look. The pelvis is tilted forward and the bum is pushed back while shoulders and bust were thrust forward - this created an S-shaped body of a woman. This cause problems such as lumbar lordosis (sway back)

Edwardian Blouse: hand embroidered lace blouse usually white, with high necks the buttons are in the back meaning the wearer needed help in getting dressed - from he her lady's maid.

Lingerie Look: aka love exterior - lace is used as an important element of the gown.Mid decade, the lingerie look was popular with lots of lace and ribbons covering the entire outer surfaces.

Venice Lace: Also known as Venetian lace. Made of either cotton or rayon. lace was worn, even day blouses elaborately adorned, some evening gowns were made entirely lace and much was worn on petticoats.

Day / tea dresses: Tea gowns made of diaphanous pastel fabrics / sheer chiffons at the neckline / cascading lace added emphasis to the low bust line .

Types of sleeves: 1. Bishop ‘s Sleeve: in the 1890’s fashion drama shift from the skirt to the sleeves and shoulders. The bishop sleeves have its fullness on the wrists.

2. Leg of mutton sleeve: (aka known in french as gigot sleeves) fullness at the shoulder and upper arm, tapered to a close fitting on the elbow to the wrist.Some sleeves were so large that cushions were necessary to keep them in place.

3. Mushroom Puff Sleeve: fitted tightly over the length of the arm and capped at the shoulder by a shallow flattened puffed.

Duster: long durable coats were made of rubberized cotton duck or twill (water repellant) and worn in cars by both men and women. Loose fitting and masculine, usually plain.

Pintuck:

La Belle Epoque ● The French called this ear from 1895 - 1914, La Belle Epoque ● It was a time of Beautiful clothes, and luxury living - for the very rich and privileged through birth ○ A New heights in creativity - art, design, music, ballet, theatre ● More freedom, colour and details in fashion.

La Belle Epoque Tailored Suit ● Made of wool or serge Initially only the jacket was tailored and it was worn with a draped bustle skirt. ● More comfortable and freedom of movement ● Men were not impressed by this suit, as they thought it was challenging the power in society and women started to hit for independence for the future.

New silhouette

1907 - Slim, straight, linear silhouette and skirts raised above the ankle for ease of movement ● In 1907…the skirt has gone SHORT! A full 2 INCHES above the floor ● Revolutionary for the day, when 10 years earlier women who showed ankle or leg skin were considered obscene/ loose...‘prostitutes’ Paul Poiret: ● Most influential fashion designer ● Inspiration from neoclassical and orientalist styles - japanese kimono, and middle easter caftan. ● Replacement of the corset with the Hobble skirt: ultra narrow, ankle length that handicapped the wearer

Hobble skirt: ultra narrow, ankle length that handicapped the wearer ● Vertical, tight bottomed tubular style ● Hobble garter was used to narrow the skirt ● 12’ wide forcing the wearer to take short mincing steps or even sometimes hopping on stairs or street curbs - the wearer was forced to take geisha liked steps ● Kathering Wright -Katharine Wright visited Europe in 1909. claimed to be inspiration for Paul Poiret’s hobble skirt. Although Poiret never claimed to have been inspired by Katharine; by his own telling his purpose was simply to emphasize the womanly shape. Poiret’s Brassiere

Jean Paquin (1869-1936) ● Leading french fashion designer

● First major couturier and one of the pioneers of them modern fashion business ● Known for innovative designs ● First designer to send models dressed in apparel to public events - operas, horse races, parties, etc. ● Used fur as fabric, introduced radical fabrics ( spider lace) and bright colours.

NORTH AMERICA: HIGHLIGHTS OF END OF ERA ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Pre 20th Century – North America: United States Civil War 1861 – 1865 brings end to Slavery Movement West to Great Plains and Pacific Coast - Railroad, Gold Rush Large-scale industries growing in economy but Agriculture employed almost half of all Americans New York biggest city, followed by Chicago, Philadelphia, St. Louis San Francisco’s Cable cars began in 1873 Electric lights in New York 1882 Telegraph and Telephone invented 1870’s Public Kindergarten began in 1873, only 4% of ages 14 to 17 stayed in school Beginning of white-collar workers, secretaries, clerks, typists, telephone operators, bookkeepers Beginning of volume made ready-to-wear fashions

● ● Automobiles: Ford began producing Model T in 1908 and promoted the buy now and pay later model. Telephone: Wires reached across the country connecting businesses and reaching more homes Airplane: Wright brothers successfully flue the first airplane in 1903 Hollywood: A group of filmmakers moved to California town to establish a new industry

Women in the Workforce ● The industrial revolution of the nineteenth century made manufactured goods more widely available and created more jobs. ● Poor women had worked, and more and more middle class women began to

work outside the home ● By 1900 over five million women in the United States had jobs by 1910 the number had risen to seven-and-a-half million. ● This created a need for fashion that would enable women to be more active ● 1890-1910 - styles became simpler and more practical. Women’s Trade Union League (WTUL), American organization, the first national association dedicated to organizing women workers. Founded in 1903, the WTUL proved remarkably successful in uniting women from all classes to work toward better, fairer working conditions.

Sportswear ● More practical designs was developed - casual, easy to wear, little decoration ● Sportswear - cycling, swimming, golfing , ect. ● All kinds of new sports were coming Shirtwaist ● Blouse for the working women ● Women’s blouses in various styles and fabrics ● Mass production made this casual clothing available for all classes ● Early Edwardian day wear waists typically had high collars and bishop sleeves. Later in the decade a greater variety of collar and sleeve types were offered in ready-to-wear and sewing pattern catalogs.

The Gibson Girl ● women are becoming more independent, self-assured, new perspective on the traditional role of the Victorian housewife and mother. Women were pursuing health, recreation, and an active outdoor life ● The Gibson Girl - epitome of the idealized american women - tall, confident, and athletic but also a fashion style setter. ● Depicts a picture of fashionable upper-middle class modern young woman (new woman) ● Women gained more independence, began to work outside the home, and sought the right to vote and other rights ● Became the female icon of the era. ● Hairstyle: the pompadour a high bouffant arrangement with a chignon at the back.

● Named for its creator American illustrator Charles Dana Gibson (1867–

1944) as he drew charming and attractive pictures of ladies engaged in sports, wearing plain skirts with starched blouses. Oxford Shoes: characterized by shoelace eyelets tabs that are attached under the vamp, a feature “close lacing”

1.Oxford - no flaps 2. Derby - have flaps •Describe the silhouette at the turn of the century. •How were women viewed in society? What was their role? •How did the death of Queen Victoria affect the spirit of the times and the fashion of the times? •Who is the Gibson Girl and what did she represent? •What were the predominant styles and silhouettes at the end of 1910? •How do the occurrences of women in the workforce and the development of ready-to-wear (RTW) affect the American Fashion scene? •Compare the spirit of the times in Europe versus North America....