CTE Lecture Notes - CTE3512 Hand PDF

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CTE3512 Christie Hand, full year lecture notes...

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History of Dress Notes Chapter 7: Italian Renaissance c. 1400-1600 ★ Methodology ★ Primary resources ★ Secondary ★ Clothing and art ○ Problems with clothing and art: colors change over time, garments and visual representation, does not represent color or texture ■ Sculptures front he time period may not be the most accurate representation ○ When people represent themselves, it's in a partly idealized way ■ Instagram filters, photoshopping, makeup ■ Has happened all throughout time ○ Religious figures ■ Virgin mary dressed conservatively ■ Angels pictured in greek gowns ■ Wise men shown wearing types of clothing of actors ★ Renaissance: “rebirth” ○ Release of thought and action from strict theological and limited dogmas of the Middle Ages ★ Transition from medieval times ○ Classicas, humanism, greco-roman revival, rise of the individual, beginning of moderns history ○ Renaissance marked with financial growth, expansion of trade, away from feudal system, kings and princes ruling merchant families, invest in art ○ Commerce with eastern countries: -china and india and spices and fabrics: influence on fashion ★ 1445 The printing press - Johannes Gutenburg: middle classes could be educated, rise of the middle class ★ World exploration ★ Scientific advancements ★ Change in art ○ Advancements including: ■ Human beauty (body vs. religions art) rather than somber religious art, depressing ■ Life's pleasures ■ Perspective ★ Change in social structure ★ Italian renaissance, began in italy ★ Class structure: ○ aristocracy/ruling class ○ Merchant class: became wealthy and influences ○ Artisan and artists

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○ Townspeople ○ Perseants (country) ○ Slaves Sumptuary laws: limiting what different people in different classes could wear ○ Upper class: crimson of gold velvet, hanging sleeves, silver and gold, velvet or silk garments Clothing Textiles ○ Italy known for quality of wool: Italian wool and silk widely used around Europe ○ Velvets - brocades, motifs from china india or persia New trends ○ Slashing, gowns, shoes, sleeves, hoses, caps Men (italian renaissance styles for men (1400-1450) similar to Europe: doublets, houppelandes, hikes) ○ Camicia: undershirt for a laborer, breathable and cool, italian word for “chemise”, for moving up in social classes: fashionable, visible, linen, embroidered, fancy undergarment ○ Doublet: waist to knee length, fits torso, fitted waist, distinctive necklines ○ Doublets and jackets ■ Not easy to distinguish between the two ○ Gowns: depends on occupation ○ Hose: multicolored joined at the crotch, decorated hoes, made from woven fabic, laces untied for physical activity ■ Codpiece: didn't stay in fashion, covers genitals: syphilis was an issue, medication would stain clothes ○ Decorative hanging sleeves ○ Full length ceremonial robes ○ Fur-trimmed open and closed cpes for warmth ○ Young men were clean shaven, bearded men were generally older, wasn't as fashionable ○ Hair medium to longer lengths, older men cut hair shorter ○ Variety o that styes: turbans, pillbox style, hats, crowns, unturned brims ○ Chaperon: hat, streamers fall front eh crown ○ Footwear: pointed toes began to round off at the end of the century, leather-soled footed hose, boots worn in bad weather or riding, turned down cuffs, end mid-calf ○ Changes for men in the 16c: less close fitted, slashing, puffed elements, some short sleeves, spanish and french influence ○ Garments: camicia with embroidered necklines, narrow silhouette, large codpieces ○ Codpieces disappear by latter part of century ○ Men began to wear bears again ○ Ventician costume: anatomical waistlines, mobility wear special, distinctive Women ○ Moved away from pregnant look, moved waistline down in fashion

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Generally three layers: camicia, underdress, overdress Camica for women, longer, underdress with second dress overtop Hair covered less Gowns: one piece, belted, pleats or gathers over bustline Middle eastern influences: fabrics and headdresses, style of clothing Ferroniere: chain of metal or pearls, jewel on forehead Changes for women in the 16c: tended to show french and spanish influence, major feature: decorative slashing in sleeves and puffs Rigid bodices Decorative elements of camicia showed at the neckline Necklines: (oval - v) rounded at midcentury, cut hight, lower necklines by end of century Breasts pushed up and flattened, not the moden bra Opened or closed mantles, or capes Hair: elaborate arrangements of braids, loops, curls, “Token” head covers Footwear: rarely seen in paintings Silhouettes of dresses grow wider and fuller Turbans Venitian costume: chopines, twin horns, blonde, underdrawers Regional differences: venice maintained a distinctive style of dress, underdrawers, low necklines, chopines, bleached blonde hair, twin “horns” in front, lover neckline, high heels: “chopines” Venitian officials: Doge: long robes, wide sleeves, headdress: phrygian bonnet

★ Women ○ 1400-1450 ■ Houppelandes had imaginatively cut sleeves ■ Foreheads were bared and fashionably high ■ Italian women covered hair less completely ■ Large round beehive-shaped hat, turbanlike ○ 1450-1500 ■ Chemise, camicia, floor length, as undergarment beneath a dress and second overdress, fuller cut ■ Long sleeves, wider above elbow and fitted below, some raglan style ■ Fine embroidery, bindings, smocking, and edges added to camicias necklines ■ Necklines lowered, square or v-shaped from round ■ Token headcoverings small jeweled net, set at back of head ■ Hair pulled into bun, or long braid or other elaborate arrangements combined with braids, loops, and curls ■ Similar shoes to men, not shown in many paintings ■ Jewelry made from precious stones, pearls, silver and gold ■ Ferroniere popular chain of metal or peals with jeweled decorations worn across center of forehead

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1500-1550 ■ Camicie cut high to show above the neckline of the gown, embroidered, decorated, sometimes finished with a ruffle ■ Turbans became fashionable Late 1500s ■ Spanish influences appear in more rigid bodices ■ V-shaped waistlines 1400-1450 ■ International gothic style influence ■ Doublets worms with hose, knee length ■ Hukes over doublets ■ Houppelandes had wide, funnel shaped, or hanging sleeves ■ Hair cut short 1450-1500 ■ Linen drawers, undershirts, doublets, hose, and outer jackets ■ Shirts visible at edges or openings of outermost garment ■ Lower class wore only shirts and underpants for hard labor ■ Sleeves and body cut in one piece with gussets (small triangles of fabric, permit ease of movement) under sleeve ■ Doublets sometimes cut with a small skirt ■ Doublets had distinctive necklines, at front collarless neckline, at center of back deep u-shaped piece cut out, neck edge that stood away from the neck, smooth back waist to neck ■ Hose cut as two pieces or seamed together at crotch ■ Doublets and hose worn by working men and soldiers, by the end of the century fashionable young men wore doublet and hose without outer jacket ■ Mid-century, jackets fit smoothly through torso ■ Sleeves more fitted, earlier sleeves were cut into two sections ■ Hanging sleeves generally nonfunctional, decorative ■ Ceremonial robes worn by state officials and lawyers, full length gowns over doublet and hose ■ Young men cut hair in medium to longer lengths, straight of curly, older men cut shorter, men generally clean shaven ■ Hat styles include turban like, brimless pillbox, soft or rigid high toques, soft crowns and upturned brims or round crown and narrow brim ■ Pointed toes rounded off, leather soled footed hose more popular ■ Boots worn outdoors in bad weather or riding, tuned down cuffs, ended at mid-calf 1500-1550 ■ Camicia with embroidered necklines and cuffs ■ Narrow silhouette doublets without jackets ■ Doublets became fuller

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■ Some deep square neckline to show embroidery, decorative sladshing ■ Hose had a padded codpiece, disappeared in later 16th century ■ Men began to wear beards again Late 1500s ■ Silhouette widnes ■ Jackets take on rigid shape ■ Puffs and sashes increase

Chapter 8: The Northern Renaissance c. 1500-1600

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Henry VIII (Tudor) becomes kings of England The protestant reformation, 1517 Charles V elected as Holy Roman Emperor, 1517 Edward VI assumes throne, 1547 Mary Tudor succeeded throne after death of Edward, 1553 Queen Elizabeth I assumes throne, 1558 Clothing Sources: imported garments and fabrics, books, travelers reports, portraits Royal intermarriages: italy, france, spain, england, bringing culture Middle east: turkish characters used in masques, ballets, drama; long robes powered with gold, hat of crimson velvet (turban), scimitars (sword) ★ Textile technology and decoration ○ Better spinning mechanisms ○ Hand knitting used for stockings ○ Lace making, techniques for making lace developed in the 16th century, lace was used in profusion as trimming and for wide ruffs, collars and cuffs ○ Spanish work: fine embroidery ○ Jewelry sewn onto clothing ○ Lots of slashing ★ Ruffs ○ Linen - lace, expensive materials and upkeep, grew to enormous lengths that needed support from a supportasse ★ Men ○ 1500-1515: similar to late middle ages in components, shoes now round at toe ○ 1515-1550: wide, full, puffs, slashes, panes ○ 1550-1600: narrower shoulders, gradually wider at hip, trunk hose

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Shirts: more visible, high necks seen under doublets, white linen Gowns: loose, wide - bulky, broad shoulders, knee length, elbow length puffs, padded shoulders and chest ○ Doublets/jackets: doublet = patlock in England, Jacket = jerkin in England, fitting, cut with deep V, sometimes V-cut filled with stomacher of different color, longer peplums after 1540 ○ Trunk sleeve: wide at top narrow at wrist, sometimes padded ○ Peascod belly: increased padding in front of doublet, point at front of doublet very pronounced, resembles “puffed out” peacock chest ○ Pecadils: stiffened tabbed edge at armhold or waistband ○ Men could choose between bases and hose, divided into sections called upper and nether stocks, upper eventually appeared as a separate garment ○ Breeches: worn together with separate stockings, venetians: wide at top and tapering to the knee, open: wide and full throughout ○ Trunk hose: puffy upper section of breeches, padded, stuffed with bombast, often slashed, gallygaskin/slops: sloped gradually from a narrow waist to fullness concentrated about mid-thigh, culots: pad around hips, worn with tight-fitting hose ○ Doublets had narrower shoulders, worn with hose ○ Extremely full short breeches are called pumpkin or melon hose ○ Roundhose: round, puffy ○ Panes: narrow strips of fabric worn over trunk hose, attached at waist and hem ○ Codpiece: reaches extremes in the middle of the 16th century, eventually fades out of fashion ○ Canions: fitted extension, worn with roundhouse ○ Bases: separate skirt worn with jacket or doublet for civil dress, over armour for military dress, heavy cloth, padded, organ like pleats ○ Slashed shoes, duckbill shoes, laws restricted them to 6” wide ★ Women ○ 1500-1530: transition from middle ages ○ 1530-1575: spanish influences change to petticoat: visible part of overdress, and overdress ○ 1575-1600: growth of skirt, supported by hoop ○ Early 16th century ■ Hourglass silhouette, small waistline, square neckline, undersleeves (padded), dress sleeve variations (funnel shaped), skirt split to show petticoat (underskirt), partlets ■ Partlets: modesty panel for open necked bodices ■ Sleeves: a few variations: smooth narrow with decorative cuffs, wide funnel shaped, hanging sleeves ■ Undergarments: corset: gave conical shape, later known as stays, Busk: flat/long piece of wood or whalebone sewn into the fabric ■ Spain: Verdugado: first hoop skirt, wood frame with heavy fabric also known as farthingale: cone shaped ■ Ropa: spanish origin, outer gown or surcote, sleeveless or different

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sleeves, fell from shoulders, unbelted A-line to the floor Late 16th century ■ Wider hips, elongated tiger bodices, heavily padded trunk sleeves, extreme width of skirts, hair dressed high and collas stood up at neck ■ In France and England, skirts take on width just below waist, padded device tied below waist called bumroll ■ Emphasis on small waist and big hips ■ French farthingale ■ Off-setting skirt width: fuller sleeves with high sleeve caps, deeper V stomachers, higher hairstyles, high standing collars: open ruff, conch ■ Conch: standing collar, lined cloth wired behind the head ■ Headdress: gable hood, frizzed hair, high forehead, bonnets and hats, hair held in nets, hats were large and feathered ■ Large gold chains were important accessories ■ Make-up: white arsenic based make-up (showed they were not a worker outside), clergy did not approve of make-up ■ Popular accessories: gloves, fans, hats and head coverings, shoes and boots By the end of the 16th century, wester history takes in not only Europe, but the new world, the westerns hemisphere

Chapter 9: The Seventeenth Century 1600-1700 ★ Major powers in the 17th century: France, England, Spain, Holland: independent and prosperous ★ Baroque (1600-1700) ○ Court art, patrons: bourgeoisie, no geometric forms, lavish ornamentation, free and flowing lines, curved forms, massive rather than delicate ★ France: strict court etiquette, ritualized activities for kings dressing, washing considered dangerous, lengths of trains regulated ★ Cardinal Richelieu: French, 1625 chief minister for Louis XIII, believed in rule by divine right ★ Louis XIV: King of france 1643-1715, longest reign, Versailles: extensive wardrobe needed for court, exports: tapestries, silk, fans, ribbons wigs, feather accessories ★ Spain: ○ Outmoded fashion, not as lavish as France ○ Guardinfante: farthingale like skirt, oval width hoop skirt, full/slashed sleeves, fitted cuffs ○ Mantilla: veil worn to cover the hair ○ Basque: extension of bodice that came down over the top of wide skirt ★ Dutch painters: portraits, realistic subjects, light and shadows, interior scenes, still lives, landscapes ★ Mannerist style: realistic representations of religious themes, appeals to emotions ★ Jan Vermeer: girl with a pearl earring ★ English Civil War:

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Cavaliers: royalists, supporters of King Charles I, dressed fashionably Roundheads: puritans, shorter hair, want a stronger parliament, avoided ostentatious fashions, simplicity ■ Men: ruffs, doublets, less fancy, cuffs, breeches, garters, stockings, shoes ■ Women: little color, plain clothes and fabrics ★ Textiles: ○ Silk, velvet, satin, linen, taffeta, padded gold embroidery on silk ○ Production: clothes made by male professional tailors, lower classes: women did the work, 1675: women tailors could only make clothing for women, draw loom: produces elaborated figures on silk fabrics ○ Trade with the Far East: portuguese sail around South Africa to India, 1542: contact with Japan, silk → silk road, East India Trading Company ■ Chintz: hand painted or printed, sometimes glazed ■ Calicos: colorful Indian printed cotton ● Cotton: durable comfortable, easy to clean ■ Bengali Muslim: highly priced ■ Demand for cotton led to smuggling ★ Clothing ○ Sources: portraits, fashion plates, invention of some new garments ○ Wide bottom styles persisted ○ Men: ■ 1625-1650: ● Shirt of white linen ● Ruff became flat lace-trimmed collar, falling band or whisk ● Doublets: fitting, shorter, peascod belly shrinks, straight cut peplums in Spain, pointed in other countries, slim sleeves ● Hose: not puffy, cut full, covers knees ● Breeches: knee length, breeches replace trunk hose ● Shoes: decorated with rosettes, slap soles: flat attached only at the front, Galosh: flat soled overshoe with toe cap for keeping it in place ● Capes: smaller, hip-length, often worn on one shoulder, for weather and for elegance ● Periwigs: long and curly, own hair or wigs, “Love lock”: grow one hair longer than rest, wore small and pointed beards: “pickdevant” ● Hats: wide brims, decorated with plumes ■ 1650-1680: ● White linen worn with: flat collar or cravat at center front, jacket ending above waistline, full breeches (some looked like skirt: petticoat breeches) ● Petticoat breeches: also known as rhinegraves: full skirt like, by younger men, made of silk and ribbon ● Garments elaborate trimmed with ribbons and had ruffles called canons at the knees

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1680-1700: ● White shirts, long cravats, sleeved vests extended to knees, also called waistcoats, outer coats with full skirt over vest ● Neckwear: wide collars with lace, Cravats: trimmed with band ● Vest: put on show by King Charles II, simpler than petticoat breeches, knee length and covered breeches ● Coats: wool, different sleeve lengths, buttons by 1680’s, some with flared shirts, knee length coats replaced doublets, called surtouts or justacorps by French and cassocks by English ● Three piece suit: coat, vest, breeches ● Accessories: jack boots ● Swords, sashes, canes wigs, all grew larger Women: ■ 1630-1660: ● Softer silhouette with slightly elevate waist replaced the wide farthingale, full paned sleeves showed white linen chemise called virago sleeves ● Skirts were separate garments, farthingale out of style, bare arms, flat breasts, puffy sleeves ■ 1660-1680: ● Bodices lengthened and narrowed, shaped into long V at front,skirts open or closed, necklines often horizontal ■ 1680-1700: ● Layers of skirts ● Elongated bodices, bell shaped, puffy sleeves ● Gowns: necklines tended to be square, ribbons decorated insets for the front of bodices called stomacher, sleeve ended below elbow ● Stomacher: worn over corset, fill in front of bodice, decorative ● Skirt were long, usually split at front to display decorative petticoat, then looped up and dropped over hip, ending in long train ● Mantua: Overskirt: pouches over hips, long train pleated to fit, for formal wear, derive from middle eastern robes, worn over corset, full in back and front ● Headdress: Fontange: elaborate headdress in France, Commode: elaborate headdress in England, high lace cap for women ○ Cavalier style hats, soft linen caps with fine lace or embroidered ○ Copotain: tall-crowned, narrow-brimmed slightly conical hat, flipped up, some with feathers ● Hair: lots of curls, frizzy look ● Footwear: high heels, pointed toes, Pantofles/mules: heel-less slippers, backless

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Accessories: muffs, earrings, face masks, gloves, handkerchiefs, purses, neck chains, earrings, rings Cosmetics: perfume in decorated box shaped like an apple called pomander ball, darken eyebrows with lead, cover up scars from makeup, colored lips and fingernails, plumpers: balls of wax to give face round shape, artificial eyebrows made of mouse skins

Children: ■ Dressed as small adults, wore skirts until 6 years old, ribbons at back of shoulders thought to be a mark of status for upper class children ■ Layette: swaddling bands, bibs, caps, shirts, mittens, Tailclouds or Nappies (diapers) ■ Biggin: child’s cap made of linen or wool, ties under chin

Chapter 10: The Eighteenth Century (1700-1800) ★ French Court continued as center of fashion during reign of Louis XV and XVI ○ Changes during the last quarter if the century: English style impacted French fashion, known as Anglomania ★ Louis VX: set the style in fashion, literature, and decorative arts, Rococo art styles began to replace baroque ★ French Revolution (1789-1799) ★ U.S. Independence ★ The Arts: Baroque & Rococo ○ Baroque: end of 16th c to mid 18 c, lavish ornamentation, free flowing lines, curved forms ○ Rococo: less massive, more slender and delicate curves (S and C curves), asymmetrical balance, refinement of heavier, more vigorous baroque expression, decadent aristocracy, decorative, decorated furniture, naked bodies, beauty for the sake of beauty ★ Painters ○ Boucher: portrait of madame de Pompadour ○ William Hogarth: english painter, satirist ★ Neoclassical Revival ○ Excavations in Italy in 1917 & 1748: two Roman cities of Pompeii & Herculaneum ○ Neoclassical (Greek a...