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12/2/2017

In Indian Slum, Misery, Work, Politics and Hope - The New York Times

ASIAPACIFIC

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INDIA'SWA Y

InOneSlum,Misery,Work,Politics andHope ByJIMYARDLEY DEC.28,2011 MUMBAI,India—AttheedgeofIndia’sgreatestslum,ShaikhMobin’s

decrepitshantyiscleavedlikeaweddingcake,fourlayershighandsliced downthemiddle.Themissinghalfhasbeendemolished.Whatremains appearsreadyfordemolition,too,withtemporarywallsandarickety corrugatedroof. Yetinside,carpentersareassemblingfurnitureonthegroundfloor.One floorup,menarebusilycuttingandstitchingbluejeans.Upstairsfromthem, workersarecrouchedoversewingmachines,makingblouses.Andatthetop, stillmoreworkersarefashioningmen’ssuitsandweddingapparel.One crumblingshanty.Fourbusinesses. InthelabyrinthineslumknownasDharaviare60,000structures,many ofthemshanties,andasmanyasonemillionpeoplelivingandworkingona triangleoflandbarelytwothirdsthesizeofCentralParkinManhattan. Dharaviisoneoftheworld’smostinfamousslums,aclichéofIndianmisery. Itisalsoachurninghiveofworkshopswithanannualeconomicoutput

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/29/world/asia/in-indian-slum-misery-work-politics-and-hope.html

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In Indian Slum, Misery, Work, Politics and Hope - The New York Times

estimatedtobe$600milliontomorethan$1billion. “Thisisaparalleleconomy,”saidMr.Mobin,whosefamilyisinvolvedin severalbusinessesinDharavi.“Inmostdevelopedcountries,thereisonlyone economy.ButinIndia,therearetwo.” Indiaisarisingeconomicpower,evenashugeportionsofitseconomy operateintheshadows.Its“formal”economyconsistsofbusinessesthatpay taxes,adheretolaborregulationsandburnishthecountry’sglobalimage. India’s“informal”economyiseverythingelse:thehundredsofmillionsof shopkeepers,farmers,constructionworkers,taxidrivers,streetvendors,rag pickers,tailors,repairmen,middlemen,blackmarketeersandmore. Thisdivideexistsinotherdevelopingcountries,butitisachasminIndia: expertsestimatethattheinformalsectorisresponsiblefortheoverwhelming majorityofIndia’sannualeconomicgrowthandasmuchas90percentofall employment.Theinformaleconomyexistslargelyoutsidegovernment oversightand,inthecaseofslumslikeDharavi,withoutgovernmenthelpor encouragement. Foryears,India’sgovernmenthastriedwithmixedsuccesstoincrease industrialoutputbydevelopingspecialeconomiczonestoluremajor manufacturers.Dharavi,bycontrast,couldbecalledaselfcreatedspecial economiczoneforthepoor.Itisavisualeyesore,asymbolofrawinequality thatepitomizesthefailureofpolicymakerstoaccommodatethemillionsof ruralmigrantssearchingforopportunityinIndiancities.Italsounderscores thedeterminationofthosemigrantstocomeanyway. “EconomicopportunityinIndiastilllies,toalargeextent,inurban areas,”saidEswarPrasad,aleadingeconomist.“Theproblemisthat governmenthasn’tprovidedeasychannelstobeemployedintheformal sector.Sotheinformalsectoriswheretheactivitylies.” DharaviisDickensandHoratioAlgerandUptonSinclair.Itisingrained

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/29/world/asia/in-indian-slum-misery-work-politics-and-hope.html

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In Indian Slum, Misery, Work, Politics and Hope - The New York Times

intheIndianimagination,depictedinbooksorBollywoodmovies,aswellas intheOscarwinninghit“SlumdogMillionaire.”Dharavihasbeenexaminedin aHarvardBusinessSchoolcasestudyanddissectedbyurbanplannersfrom EuropetoJapan.YetmerelytryingtodefineDharaviiscontested. “MaybetoanyonewhohasnotseenDharavi,Dharaviisaslum,ahuge slum,”saidGautamChatterjee,theprincipalsecretaryoverseeingtheHousing MinistryinMaharashtraState.“ButIhavealsolookedatDharaviasacity withinacity,aninformalcity.” ItisaninformalcityaslayeredasMr.Mobin’sshearedbuilding—andas fragile.PlanstorazeandredevelopDharaviintoa“normal”neighborhood havestirredadebateaboutwhatwouldbegainedbutalsoaboutwhatmight belostbytryingtocontrolandregulateDharavi.EverylayerofDharavi,when exposed,revealssomethingfarmorecomplicated,andorganic,thanthe conceptofaslumasmerelyawarehouseforthepoor. Oneslum.Fourlayers.Fourrealities. Onthegroundfloorismisery. Onefloorupiswork. Anotherfloorupispolitics. Andatthetopishope. “Dharavi,”saidHariramTanwar,64,alocalbusinessman,“isamini India.” Misery Thestreetssmellofsewageandsweets.Therearenotenoughtoilets. Thereisnotenoughwater.Thereisnotenoughspace.Laborerssleepinsheds knownaspongalhouses,sixmen,maybeeight,packedintoasingle,tinyroom

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/29/world/asia/in-indian-slum-misery-work-politics-and-hope.html

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In Indian Slum, Misery, Work, Politics and Hope - The New York Times

—multipliedbymanytinyrooms.Hygieneisterrible.Diarrheaandmalaria arecommon.Tuberculosisfloatsintheair,spreadbycoughingorspitting. Dharavi,liketheepicslumsofKarachi,Pakistan,orRiodeJaneiro,isoften categorizedasaproblemstillunsolved,anemblemofinequitypressing againstMumbai,India’srichestandmostglamorouscity.Awalkthrough Dharaviisajourneythroughadankmazeofevernarrowingpassagesuntilthe shantiespresstogethersotightlythatdaylightbarelyreachesthefootpaths below,asiftheslumwereagreaturbanrainforest,coveredbyacanopyof smokeandsheetmetal. Trafficbleats.Fliesandmosquitoessettleonroadsidecartsoffruitand atopthehidesofwanderinggoats.Tenfamiliesshareasinglewatertap,with waterflowingthroughthepipesforlessthanthreehourseveryday,enough timeforeveryonetofillacisternortwo.Toiletsarecommunal,withacharge of3centstodefecate.Sewageflowsthroughnarrow,openchannels,slow movingstreamsofgreenwaterandgarbage. Attheslum’speriphery,SionHospitaltreats3,000patientseveryday, manyfromDharavi,oftenchildrenwhoaremalnourishedorhaveasthmaor diarrhea.Prematuretoothdecayissowidespreadinchildrenthatdoctorscall themdentalcripples. “PeoplewhocometoDharaviorotherslumareas—theirpriorityisnot health,”saidDr.PallaviShelke,whoworksinDharavi.“Theirpriorityis earning.” AndthatiswhatisperhapsmostsurprisingaboutthemiseryofDharavi: peoplecomevoluntarily.Theyhavefordecades.Dharavioncewasknownfor gangsandviolence,buttodayDharaviisaboutwork.Temperssometimes flare,fightsbreakout,butthepolicesaythecrimerateisactuallyquitelow, evenlowerthaninwealthier,lessdenselypopulatedareasofthecity.An outsidercanwalkthroughtheslumandneverfeelthreatened. Miseryiseverywhere,asinmiserableconditions,asinhardship.But

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/29/world/asia/in-indian-slum-misery-work-politics-and-hope.html

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peopleheredonotspeakofbeingmiserable.Peoplespeakabouttryingtoget ahead. Work Theorderwasfor2,700briefcases,custommadegiftsforalargebankto distributeduringtheHinduholidayofDiwali.Thebankcontactedasupplier, whichcontactedaleathergoodsstore,whichsenttheordertoamanufacturer. HadtheorderbeenplacedinChina,itprobablywouldhavelandedinoneof thehugecoastalfactoriesthatemploythousandsofruralmigrantsandhave madeChinaamanufacturingpowerhouse. InIndia,theorderlandedintheDharaviworkshopofMohammedAsif. Mr.Asif’sworkforceconsistsof22men,whositcrossleggedbesidemounds ofsoft,blackleather,aninformalassemblyline,exceptthatthefactoryflooris acrampedroomdoublingasadormitory:theworkerssleepabove,inaloft. Thebriefcasesweredueintwoweeks. “Theyworkhard,”Mr.Asifsaid.“Theyworkfrom8inthemorninguntil 11atnightbecausethemoretheydo,themoretheywillearntosendbackto theirfamilies.Theycomeheretoearn.” UnlikeChina,Indiadoesnothavecolossalmanufacturingdistricts becauseIndiahaschosennottofollowtheEastAsiandevelopmentmodelof buildingamoderneconomybystartingwithlowskillmanufacturing.If China’sauthoritarianleadershavedeliberatelysteeredthecountry’ssurplus ruralworkforceintourbanfactories,Indianleadershavedonelittleto promotejobopportunitiesincitiesforruralmigrants.Infact,rightwing politicalpartiesinMumbaihaveledsometimesviolentcampaignsagainst migrants. YetIndia’sruralmigrants,desperatetoescapepoverty,flocktothecities anyway.DharaviisanindustrialgnatcomparedwithChina’smanufacturing heartland—andtheworkingconditionsintheslumarealmostcertainlyworse

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/29/world/asia/in-indian-slum-misery-work-politics-and-hope.html

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thanthoseinmajorChinesefactories—butDharavidoesseemtoshare China’scandospirit.AlmosteverythingimaginableismadeinDharavi,much ofitforsaleinIndia,yetmuchofitexportedaroundtheworld. Today,Dharaviisasmuchacasestudyinindustrialevolutionasaslum. Beforethe1980s,Dharavihadtanneriesthatdumpedtheireffluentintothe surroundingmarshlands.LaborerscamefromsouthernIndia,especiallythe stateofTamilNadu,manyofthemMuslimsorlowercasteHindus,fleeing drought,starvationorcastediscrimination.OnceTamilNadu’seconomy strengthened,migrantsbeganarrivingfrompovertystrickenstatesincentral India. Later,thetannerieswerecloseddownforenvironmentalreasons,moving southtothecityofChennai,ortootherslumselsewhere.YetDharavihada skilledlaborforce,aswellascheapcostsforworkshopsandworkers,and informalnetworksbetweensuppliers,middlemenandworkshops.So Dharavi’sleathertrademovedupthevaluechain,assmallworkshopsused rawleatherprocessedelsewheretomakehandbagsforsomeofthepriciest storesinIndia. Duringthissameperiod,Dharavi’smigrationwavesbecameatorrent,as peoplestreamedoutofBiharandUttarPradesh,theteeming,backward northernstatesnowatthelocusofruralIndianpoverty. “After1990,immigrationwastremendous,”saidRamachandraKorde,a longtimecivicactivistcommonlyknownaroundDharaviasBhau,orbrother. “Itusedtobethat100to300to400peoplecametoDharavieveryday.Justto earnbreadandbutter.” LeatherworkisnowamajorindustryinDharavi,butonlyone.Small garmentfactorieshaveproliferatedthroughouttheslum,makingchildren’s clothesorwomen’sdressesfortheIndianmarketorexportabroad.According toa2007studysponsoredbytheUnitedStatesAgencyforInternational Development,Dharavihasatleast500largegarmentworkshops(definedas

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/29/world/asia/in-indian-slum-misery-work-politics-and-hope.html

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In Indian Slum, Misery, Work, Politics and Hope - The New York Times

having50ormoresewingmachines)andabout3,000smallerones.Then therearethe5,000leathershops.Thentherearethefoodprocessorsthat makesnacksfortherestofIndia. Andthenstillmore:printmakers,embroiderersand,mostofall,thevast recyclingoperationsthatsort,cleanandreprocessmuchofIndia’sdiscarded plastic. “Wearecleaningthedirtofthecountry,”saidFareedSiddiqui,the generalsecretaryoftheDharaviBusinessmen’sWelfareAssociation. Mr.Asif,theleathershopowner,isatypicalmemberofDharavi’s entrepreneurclass. Now35,hearrivedattheslumin1988,leavinghisvillageinBiharafter hearingaboutDharavifromanotherfamily.HejumpedonatraintoMumbai. Hewas12. “Someonefrommyvillageusedtolivehere,”hesaid.“Wewerepoorand hadnothing.” Mr.Asifbeganasanapprenticeinaleathershop,learninghowtousethe heavycuttingscissors,thenthesewingmachinesthatstitchtheseamson leathergoods,untilhefinallyopenedhisownshop.Asapoormigrant,Mr. AsifcouldneverhavearrangedtheloansandworkspaceifDharaviwerepart oftheorganizedeconomy;herentshisworkshopfromtheownerofthe leathergoodsstore,whogottheorderfromthesupplierforthebriefcasesfor thebank. Today,nearlyallofMr.Asif’sworkersarealsofromBihar,oneofthe myriadpersonalnetworksthathelpdirectmigrantsoutofthevillages. MohammadWazairearnsroughly6,000rupeesamonth,orabout$120,asa laborerinMr.Asif’sworkshop.Hesendsabouthalfhomeeverymonthto supporthiswifeandtwochildren.Heisilliterate,butheisnowpayingforhis

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/29/world/asia/in-indian-slum-misery-work-politics-and-hope.html

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12/2/2017

In Indian Slum, Misery, Work, Politics and Hope - The New York Times

childrentoattendamodestprivateschoolintheirvillage.Hevisitsthemtwice ayear. “Inthevillage,whatoptionsdowehave?”heasked.“Wecaneitherwork inthefieldsordrivearickshaw.Whatisthefutureinthat?Here,Icanlearna skillandearnmoney.Atleastmychildrenwillgetaneducation.” Politics “Nowtheplaceisgold,”saidMr.Mobin,thebusinessman. Heissittingonthetopfloorofhisbuilding,surroundedbymen’ssuitsin theapparelshop.Hisfamilybeganintheleatherbusinessinthe1970sandhas sincemovedintoplasticrecycling,garmentsandrealestate.Slumproperty mightnotseemlikeagoodinvestment,butDharaviisnowoneofthemost valuablepiecesofrealestateinMumbai.Whichisaproblem,asMr.Mobin seesit. “Peoplefromalloverthecity,andthepoliticians,aremakinghueandcry thatDharavimustbedeveloped,”hesaid.“Buttheyarenotdevelopingitfor thepeopleofDharavi.Theywillprovideofficebuildingsandshoppingforthe richerclass.” AsMumbaicametosymbolizeIndia’sexpandingeconomy—andthe country’sexpandinginequality—Dharavibeganattractingwiderattention. MumbaigrewasDharavigrew.Iftheslumoncesatontheperiphery,itnowis ascarinthemiddleofwhatisapeninsular,landstarvedcity—aneyesoreand embarrassment,ifalsoaharbingerofabroaderproblem. Today,morethaneightmillionpeopleliveinMumbai’sslums,according tosomeestimates,ahugefigurethataccountsformorethanhalfthecity’s population.Manypeopleliveinslumsbecausetheycannotaffordtolive anywhereelse,andgovernmenteffortstobuildaffordablehousinghavebeen woefullyinadequate.Butmanynewerslumsarealsomicroversionsof

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/29/world/asia/in-indian-slum-misery-work-politics-and-hope.html

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12/2/2017

In Indian Slum, Misery, Work, Politics and Hope - The New York Times

Dharavi’sinformaleconomy.SomenewermigrantsevencometoDharavito learnnewskills,asifDharaviwereaslumfranchisingoperation. “Dharaviisbecomingtheirsteppingstone,”saidVineetJoglekar,acivic leaderhere.“Theylearnjobs,andthentheygotosomeotherslumandsetup there.” Dharavistillexistsonthemargins.Fewbusinessespaytaxes.Few residentshaveformaltitletotheirland.Politicalpartiescourttheslumfor votesandhaveslowlydeliveredthingstakenforgrantedelsewhere:some toilets,waterspigots. ButthemainpoliticalresponsetoDharavi’sunorthodoxsuccesshasbeen totrytorazeit.India’spoliticalclassdiscoveredDharaviinthe1980s,when anymigrantwhojabbedfourpostsintoanemptypatchofdirtcouldclaima homestead.Landwasscarce,andsomepeoplebegandumpingstonesor refusetofillthemarshesattheedgeoftheArabianSea. RajivGandhi,thenIndia’sprimeminister,sawtheteemingslumand earmarkedonebillionrupees,orabout$20million,foraprogramtobuild affordable,hygienichousingforDharavi’spoor.Localofficialssiphonedoff someofthemoneyforothermunicipalprojectswhilealsobuildingsome tenementsthattodayarebadlydecayed.Theproliferationofshanties continued. Threedecadeslater,thebasicimpulsesetinmotionbyMr.Gandhi—that Dharavishouldberedevelopedandsomehowstandardized—stillprevails. Buttheincentiveshavechanged.Dharavi’slandisnowworthhundredsof millionsofdollars.Privatedevelopersdonotseeaslumbutapieceofproperty convenienttotheairport,surroundedbytrainstationsandadjacenttoasleek officepark. Asweepingplanapprovedin2006wouldprovidefreeapartmentsand commercialspacetomanyDharaviresidentswhileallowingprivateinvestors

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/29/world/asia/in-indian-slum-misery-work-politics-and-hope.html

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12/2/2017

In Indian Slum, Misery, Work, Politics and Hope - The New York Times

todevelopadditionalspaceforsaleatmarketrates.ManyDharavicivicand businessleadersendorsedtheplan,evenascriticsdenouncedtheproposalas agiveawaytorichdevelopers. Fornow,theprojectremainslargelystalled,embroiledinbureaucratic infighting,evenasadifferent,existentialdebateisunderwayaboutthe potentialrisksofredevelopingDharaviandshreddingtheinformalnetworks thatbindittogether. “TheyaretalkingaboutredevelopingDharavi,”saidMohammad KhurshidSheikh,whoownsaleathershop.“Butiftheydo,thewholechain maybreakdown.ThesebusinessescanworkbecauseDharaviattractslabor. Peoplecanworkhereandsleepintheworkshop.Ifthereisredevelopment, theywillnotgetthatroomsocheap.Theywillnotcomebackhere.” MatiasEchanove,anarchitectandurbanplanner,haslongarguedthat Dharavishouldnotbedismissedasmerelyaslum,sinceitoperatesasa containedresidentialandcommercialcity.HesaidrazingDharavi,oreven completelyredevelopingit,wouldonlypushresidentsintootherslums. “Theyaregoingtocreateactual,realslums,”hesaid.“Nobodyissaying Dharaviisaparadise.Butweneedtounderstandthedynamics,sothatwhen thereisaninterventionbythegovernment,itdoesn’tdestroywhatisthere.” Hope SylvaVanitaBaskarwasborninDharavi.Sheisnow39,alreadyawidow. Herhusbandlosthisvigorandthenhislifetotuberculosis.Sheborrowed moneytopayforhiscare,andnowsherentsherspareroomtofourlaborers foranextra$40amonth.Shelivesinaroomwithherfourchildren.Twosons sleepinamakeshiftbed.Sheandhertwoyoungestchildrensleeponstraw matsonthestonefloor. “Theydoeverythingtogether,”shesaid,explaininghowherchildren

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/29/world/asia/in-indian-slum-misery-work-politics-and-hope.html

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12/2/2017

In Indian Slum, Misery, Work, Politics and Hope - The New York Times

enduresuchtightquarters.“Theyfighttogether.Theystudytogether.” Thecomputersitsonasmalltablebesidethebed,protected,purchased for$354fromsavings,eventhoughthefamilyhasnoInternetconnection.The oldestsonstoreshisworkonapendriveandprintsitsomewhereelse.Ms. Baskar,aseamstress,spendsfivemonths’worthofherincome,almost$400, tosendthreeofherchildrentoprivateschools.Herdaughterwantstobea flightattendant.Heryoungestson,amechanicalengineer. “Mydaughterisgettingabettereducation,andshewillgetabetterjob,” Ms.Baskarsaid.“Thechildren’slivesshouldbebetter.Whateverhardshipswe facearefine.” EducationishopeinDharavi.Onarecenta...