Final Review - Costume - Summary - Last 5 Lectures - Study Guide for Final Exam PDF

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Final Review - Costume History The Romantic Era - Gothic 1st Epoch - Vertical (1800-1821) 1st Period - Classical Epoch 2nd Epoch - Horizontal (1825-1899) 1st Period - Romantic (1825-1835) ...... Gothic Angles 2nd Period - Sentimental (1840-1850) ...... Gothic Angles 3rd Period - Crinoline (1855-1865) ...... Gothic Curves 4th Period - Bustle (1870-1885) ...... Gothic Curves 1st Period - Natural Waist (1870) 2nd Period - Extended Waist (1885) 5th Period - Fin D'siecle - End of Century Gilded Age (1890-1900) 1st Epoch - Vertical (1800-1821) • 18th and 19th Century men’s dress altered, but women’s dress changed dramatically • the hat becomes the most important accessory • introduction of horizontal emphasis; sleeves and hips re-emphasized creating Gothic theme • dress codes become extremely strict during this time period 2nd Epoch - 1st Period - Romantic (1825-1835) ...... Gothic Angles • love of things far away • sentimentalism, symbolism, realism, impressionism • local motion was in full swing -- entrance of railways • photography began a movement of looking at real people and real costumes • introduction of British economy, a success story • age of innocence = young Victoria • concept of “The Perfect Lady” - A Victorian Woman • Requirements: Costume (activity, social strata, time), Behavior (social manners), Morals (ethics, family values, commitment to society) • Lord + Lady = she who served the bread (medieval) • Lady = had own inheritance (before the revolution) • Lady = self sufficient, well married (after the revolution)

• restriction lead to radicalism underneath • social and family behaviors become very important • great social concern during this Victorian period 2nd Period - Sentimental (1840-1850) ...... Gothic Angles • the invention of the sewing machine by Atlas Howe (1846) 3rd Period - Crinoline (1855-1865) ...... Gothic Curves • dress reform movement of AJ Bloomer; the idea of A’ Disposition (1851) • women in the workplace (1853) • hoop skirt craze - A crinoline is a stiffened or structured petticoat designed to hold out a woman's skirt (flammable) • Worth designed the new, flatter front of caged crinoline • the publishing of paper patterns • the idea of separates for women; women owned more clothes than previously (1867) • (1868) Meiji Restoration of Japan • adopted European dress • Russia and Japan had conflicts, creating a war in 1904 • Ukiyo-e = the floating world; paintings of Japanese prints • Japanese style became all the rage • takashimaya was opera coats/evening wraps 2nd Epoch - 4th Period - Bustle (1870-1885) ...... Gothic Curves • during the first Bustle period, waist is at a natural point (1870) • transitional Bustle period highlighted a pencil silhouette (1875-1880) • during the second Bustle period, waist is elongated and dropped; Worth bodice (1880) • peak of the shoulder • leg turns into o’mutton sleeve • (1885) Women’s sportswear -- beach and bathing dresses made of wool

2nd Epoch - 5th Period - Fin D'siecle - End of Century Gilded Age; America (1890-1900) • hourglass figure excentuates bust, tiny waist, hips • Moulin Rouge (1890) • vertical style • broad shoulders, narrow waist, wide hips • gord skirt was tight at waist, flairs out into a bell or floral shape • walking suits • tea gown had a sheer neck * (1899) The Theory of the Leisure Class by Thorstein Veblan • conspicuous consumption - showing how much money you have in a non-obvious way • conspicuous wastefulness - consumption lead to unnecessary expenditures • conspicuous leisure - horseback riding, polo matches, yachting

*Lavers Law - The Timetable of Style • 10 Years before its time - Indecent • 5 Years before its time - Shameless • 1 Year before its time - Daring • At its time - Smart • 1 Year after its time - Dowdy • 5 Years after its time - Hideous • 10 Years after its time - Ridiculous • 30 Years after its time - Amusing • 50 Years after its time - Quaint • 70 Years after its time - Charming • 100 Years after its time - Romantic • 150 Years after its time - Beautiful...